Hubby’s birthday

Hubby’s birthday was on 12th March. Although hubby and I are not into celebrating birthdays or anniversaries in a big grand way, we usually have some simple funny celebrations to create happy memories for us. On 11th March, I went to a convenience store near our home and bought pancakes with three kinds of toppings, namely strawberry jam, pineapple jam, and whipped cream. I also bought several petit cheese cakes and custard pudding. We live in a village and it is very difficult to find shops selling fancy candles, so every year I end up using candles from our ‘emergency earthquake kit’ though I used tiny ones this year.

Birthday guy

I arranged the pancakes, cheese cakes, custard pudding, and tiny candles equivalent to hubby’s age on a plate. I lit the candles and was all set by 11.55 pm. Hubby was fast asleep but I woke him up exactly at 00.00 hour on 12th March and wished him a very happy birthday. He was nice enough not to grumble as he usually gets irritated when woken up from sleep. He blew all the candles out and we ate all the sweets.

A plate arranged with pancakes, petit cheese cakes, and tiny lit candles. I kept the custard pudding in another dish as there was no space in the plate due to too many candles.

Enlarged photo of the pancakes with all the three toppings, petit cheese cakes, and custard pudding

Hubby is blowing out the candles. There are too many candles to blow out in one breath.

Hubby having custard

Afterwards hubby relit all the candles and watched until all of them burnt out. A lot of wax remained on the plate, so he made a Diya lamp. In fact, arranging clay Diya lamps all around the home was my most favorite activity for Diwali festival during early childhood in India. But this time I improvised and told hubby to use aluminum cupcake mould that I had at home instead of clay Diya, and used wax instead of Ghee oil. In addition, he made wick from string used for rolling Chashu pork instead of the usual cotton balls. Making Diya lamp was a first-time experience for hubby and the result was very nice. Initially he was rather curious but afterwards he was very happy and enjoyed the burning Diya lamp for quite some time. In fact, I was overjoyed to see that he made the Diya lamp with two wicks, one for me and the other for him. It was so kind and considerate of him. I am thankful that God put the most wonderful husband in the world in my path. I am very happy and thankful for all the joy of having a loving and understanding hubby.

Hubby relit the candles and watched until all of them burnt out

Hubby making a Diya lamp

Hubby was initially rather curious to see the burning Diya lamp but was very happy afterwards

Diya lamp with two wicks

This year is considered to be hubby’s unlucky Yakudoshi age. In Japan, Yakudoshi refers to the belief that there are certain ages in one's life when their bad luck increases and good luck diminishes. Although it is just a superstitious belief, on 8th March hubby and I went to a Shinto shrine named Sanjin Gosaiden to pray for a healthy and good life for hubby and ward off any danger. The shrine is located at the top of Mount Haguro in Tsuruoka City of Yamagata prefecture. Mount Haguro is one of the three sacred mountains clustered together in the ancient province of Dewa. The other two mountains are Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono. The three mountains are collectively known as Dewa Sanzan. Sanjin Gosaiden Shrine is unique and important because it holds the deities from all three Dewa Sanzan shrines. Hubby and I had earlier visited Mount Haguro in October 2009 and the details about our visit to the mountain and the shrine can be found in this blog post.

The base of Mount Haguro is located about 105 kilometers south of our home in Yurihonjo City. We went to the mountain shrine by our car. After about 130 minutes of car ride, as we neared the mountain, we saw a huge red-lacquered gate named Otorii. Otorii represents the gateway to the entrance of the sacred precincts where shrine deities reside. Otorii was built in 1923, and is 21 meters high and 15 meters wide. We loved the grand Otorii Gate. After another 20 minutes of car ride, we reached the base of the mountain. At the base area, we walked along a walking trail surrounded by dense cedar forest. After about 5 minutes of walking, we reached a beautiful red-lacquered holy bridge named Shinkyo that crosses River Haraigawa. From the bridge, we got a beautiful view of Suga Waterfall and rugged cliffs that made for a stunning scene. It was winter season and therefore the entire trail was covered with dense snow. At one point hubby’s leg got stuck in the snow. So we walked cautiously along the trail and after another 5 minutes we reached in front of a five-storied pagoda. The pagoda was originally built in Johei era (931-938) and rebuilt in 1372. The 640-year-old pagoda is made entirely from wood and has thin wooden shingled roofs. The pagoda is 29 meters high and was built without a single nail. It is designated as a national treasure. The pagoda looked so elegant and graceful surrounded by cedar forest and the winter snow.

Otorii Gate

I am standing on Shinkyo Bridge along with Suga Waterfall in the background

Hubby’s leg got stuck in the snow while walking along the trail

Hubby and the five-storied wooden pagoda

After viewing the pagoda, we returned to the car parking area and next went to see Sanjin Gosaiden Shrine located at the top of Mount Haguro. We went to the top of the mountain by our car itself as the mountain is not so high. On reaching the summit, we walked along a paved pathway for about 10 minutes. But on reaching the shrine area, we realized that the main shrine was closed and not accessible during winter months. There was 3-meter-high snow all around this main shrine. But a sub-shrine named Reisaiden, located just next to the main shrine, was open. Reisaiden sub-shrine is a majestic red-lacquered building that was rebuilt in 1983. It is a single-storied wooden building having Irimoya-zukuri, Chidorihafu, and Gokensha-zukuri (five-bay sanctuary) architectural styles. We appreciated the architecture of the sub-shrine for some time and then went inside and I prayed for a healthy and good life for hubby. Afterwards I prayed some more standing in the snow outside the sub-shrine.

Hubby standing in front of Reisaiden sub-shrine

Hubby standing at the entrance area of the sub-shrine

I am praying standing in the snow outside the sub-shrine

Afterwards we left the shrine premises and next visited Mount Haguro ski resort area located just 2 kilometers south of the shrine premises. We enjoyed wonderful panoramic view near the ski resort area. Hubby wanted to ski but it was getting late, so we just watched several skiers skiing around and then left the area to return home.

Mount Haguro ski resort area

Snow everywhere near chairlift station

Beautiful panoramic view as seen from the ski resort area

Mount Haguro

On October 31st, hubby and I visited Mount Haguro in Yamagata prefecture. Mt. Haguro is one of the three sacred mountains clustered together in the ancient province of Dewa. The three mountains are collectively known as Dewa sanzan. The other two mountains are Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudano. The area is a major pilgrimage destination for the mountain priests known as yamabushi and the followers of Shugendo sect. The practice of Shinto and Buddhist worship on Mt. Haguro was first established in A.D. 593 by Prince Hachiko, son of Emperor Sushun. Leaving Nara and sailing the Japan Sea, Prince Hachiko landed at Yaotome beach, present day Tsuruoka city. Under the guidance of eight local girls and a sacred bird, a crow with three legs, Prince Hachiko made his way up Mt. Haguro and established Dewa sanzan as a place of worship. Gassan shrine is located at the top of Mt. Gassan (1984 meters high) and Yudano shrine is located halfway up Mt. Yudano (1504 meters high). Mt. Haguro is the most easily accessible and the smallest of the three mountains with a peak at only 414 meters above sea level. A shrine named Sanjin Gosaiden is located at the top of Mt. Haguro. This shrine holds the deities from all three Dewa sanzan shrines thereby making it the most important and unique of the three. The shrines of Mt. Yudano and Mt. Gassan are closed during winter season due to snowfall and therefore prayers are collectively offered to the Gods of all the shrines at Sanjin Gosaiden which is open year round.

Mt. Haguro is located less than 15 km away from Tsuruoka city in Yamagata prefecture. The other two mountain peaks are some 20 km south from it. The base of Mt. Haguro is about 100 kilometers from our home and it took hubby and me 2.5 hours to reach there by our car. As we neared the mountain, we saw a huge beautiful grand gate named o-torii. O-torii represents the gateway to the entrance of the sacred precincts where shrine deities reside. The vermilion-lacquered o-torii was built in 1923. It is 21 meters high, 15 meters wide, and is the second biggest in Japan now.

O-torii

We reached the base of Mt. Haguro at about 11.30 am, and so we had an early lunch at a small Japanese style restaurant and then visited the mountain. The lunch-set made using mountain vegetables (sansai) as the ingredients blended together very well and created mellow flavors.

Lunch-set made using mountain vegetables as ingredients

We can reach the shrine located at the peak of Mt. Haguro by car itself as the mountain is not so high. But the traditional approach to the shrine is via a walking trail that leads through a cedar forest over 2446 stone steps from the base to the summit of the mountain. This climb would usually take around one hour if we are in a reasonably good shape and do not dally too much. The climb begins at a torii gate located at the base. Just following this torii gate is another beautiful red colored front gate named Zuishinmon. Past this gate are the precincts of the Dewa sanzan shrine. After passing through Zuishinmon gate, we had to descend the first flights of stone steps over Mamako hill slope for about ten minutes or so. I was a bit surprised that instead of climbing up we were descending down! Immediately after the descent, we reached a place having many small shrines. Hubby and I prayed at these shrines.

Hubby standing at the base of Mt. Haguro in front of torii gate

Torii gate

Notice board next to torii gate showing the map of Mt. Haguro

Zuishinmon gate

Mamako hill slope descent

Many small shrines

Me ringing the bell of a small shrine

Hubby ringing the bell of another small shrine

On walking a bit further, we reached a beautiful red lacquered holy bridge named Shinkyo that crosses River Haraigawa. From the bridge, we got a beautiful view of the Suga Waterfall and rugged cliffs that made for a stunning scene.

A part of red-lacquered Shinkyo Bridge and River Haraigawa

Me standing on Shinkyo Bridge with Suga Waterfall in the background

The well-marked 1.8 kilometers pilgrimage stone steps trail to the summit of Mt. Haguro winds its way through a forest which is thick with ancient cedar trees that are 300 to 600 years old. These trees have a mysterious appearance even in full sunlight. The stone steps from Zuishinmon gate to the mountain summit as well as cedar tree lines (sugi-namiki) on both sides of the steps were constructed by Tenyu Betto, 50th chief priest of Dewa sanzan in 1648. It took 13 years to complete them and they are designated as national precious natural monuments. Along the long stone staircase steps are the ichi-no-saka, ni-no-saka, and san-no-saka areas of steep climbing.

Me standing at the beginning of ichi-no-saka staircase steps

On the left hand side of the beginning of the ichi-no-saka steep climbing area is a cedar tree named ‘Jiji cedar’ (old man cedar) which is a national treasure. The height of the tree is 48 meters and the trunk is 11.5 meters at the base. It is more than 1000 years old.

Jiji cedar tree

After walking further for about two minutes, we saw a beautiful and graceful five storied pagoda on the left hand side of the ichi-no-saka area. The pagoda was surrounded by cedars. It is traditionally said that the five storied pagoda was built by a military commander Taira no Masakado from 931 to 937. A classic text says that Fujiwara no Ujiie, a court noble, rebuilt it in 1372. The 600 year old pagoda is a five storied construction made entirely from wood and has thin wooden shingled roof. The pagoda is 29 meters high and was built without a single nail. It is designated as a national treasure. The pagoda looked so elegant in the forest and the autumn sunlight seemed to become more profound. We took several photos of the pagoda from various angles.

Five storied pagoda surrounded by cedar trees

Five storied pagoda

View of the pagoda from another angle

Detailed design of the wooden pagoda

Hubby and the pagoda

From the pagoda the climb to the mountain summit began in earnest. It is supposed to be easy to walk the trail and is actually not particularly steep. But I am not in a very good shape due to lack of daily-exercise. I was very tired while climbing the beginning of ni-no-saka steep area. So we gave up climbing by the traditional approach, descended back to the Zuishinmon gate, and then went to the summit of Mt. Haguro by our car.

Me standing near the end of ichi-no-saka stone steps

It took us about 15 minutes to go from the base to the summit of Mt. Haguro by our car. There was a toll road and we had to pay 400 Yen to reach the summit. On our way, we saw the beautiful colors of autumn all around us in the mountain. On reaching the summit we saw that there were many cars and sightseeing buses in the parking area. I felt a bit relieved to know that a large number of people used the modern approach of transportation to reach the mountain summit.

Autumn colors on our way to the summit by car

Even after reaching the summit, we had to walk for about 10 minutes to reach the main shrine. The way to the shrine was very peaceful. On our way we saw seven small shrines standing in a line.

Me walking towards the main shrine at the mountain summit

Five of the seven small shrines standing in a line

Just before reaching the main shrine, we saw the Buddhist temple bell (bonsho) and belfry (shoro). The bell, inscribed with the year 1275, is said to have been donated by the Kamakura Shogun, who was thankful for having repulsed the Mongol fleet the year before. It is the largest bell in Tohoku region and third largest in Japan. The bell is 3.14 meters tall with a diameter of 1.85 meters, and weighs 10 tons. The thatched gable roof of the belfry retains the style of early Edo period. In 1618, Mogami Genjiro Ienobu, the feudal lord of Yamagata, rebuilt this belfry which collapsed during a typhoon the previous year. Both the bell and the belfry are designated as national important cultural property.

Bell and belfry along with a monument in the front

Another view of the bell and belfry

Me standing in front of the bell and belfry

Adjacent to the bell and belfry is the main shrine worship hall building called Sanjin Gosaiden. This shrine is unique as it enshrines the deities of all the three scared mountains of Dewa, which makes it the most important of the three. This shrine can be visited throughout the year, even in winter. The date of its foundation is unknown, but the main building of the present shrine was rebuilt at the time of 75th Betto (the chief priest), Kakujun, in 1818. The building is 28.2 meters high, 26 meters wide, and 20 meters in depth. The thatched roof made from kaya trees is 2.1 meter thick. No other wooden building with a thatched roof is so large in Japan as this. This main shrine hall building is a splendid red-lacquered structure and it is designated as national important cultural property. We prayed in front of all the three mountain deities.

Sanjin Gosaiden shrine

Hubby standing in front of Sanjin Gosaiden shrine

Thatched roof of the shrine

Sanjin Gosaiden enshrines the deities of all the three mountains of Dewa

Signs showing three different shrine names

Altar area of one of the three deities

We stayed at Sanjin Gosaiden shrine for about 20 minutes and enjoyed the architecture of the building. On returning to the car parking area at the mountain summit, hubby again had lunch at a restaurant located nearby. Due to all the climbing we did earlier in the day, he was very hungry again and ate curry rice served with a pork cutlet.

Hubby eating curry rice

After hubby’s second lunch, we returned back home. It was a 2.5 hours car ride and I slept the entire way as I was rather tired due to climbing the stone steps of Mt. Haguro. We really liked our trip to Mt. Haguro. I especially liked the five storied pagoda and Sanjin Gosaiden shrine very much.