Mount Gassan

On 5th June, hubby and I visited Mount Gassan in Yamagata prefecture. Mount Gassan is the tallest of the three sacred mountains of Dewa Sanzan and has a height of 1984 meters above sea level. It is one of the 100 most famous mountains in Japan. The mountain is located at the center of Yamagata prefecture, and separates inland Yamagata from the coastal Shonai region. The mountain dominates the scenery from many regions with its imposing size and breathtaking beauty. The natural scenery of the mountain consists of a forest of primeval beech trees along with various rare animals and alpine plants. Mount Gassan is a well known place for mountainous faith and religion along with Mount Haguro and Mount Yudono located nearby. Nowadays Mount Gassan is more famous for skiing and trekking from spring to fall.

Mount Gassan is inaccessible for long periods of the year due to heavy snowfall often up to eight meters during winter. Due to this overabundance of winter snowfall, the ski-slopes are not accessible until the end of March. However visitors can enjoy skiing in snowy valleys with remaining natural snow from the beginning of April through the end of July. In fact, Mount Gassan is a well known summer skiing spot in Japan. Gassan Ski Area is actually located on a hillside subpeak of Mount Gassan. This subpeak named Ubagatake rises 1670 meters above sea level, and has a gentle slope which makes it an interesting summer ski training location for novices as well as for pro skiers.

In October 2009 we had visited a five-storied pagoda and a shrine located on Mount Haguro, which is one of the three sacred mountains of Dewa Sanzan. I have written about that visit in an earlier post. So this time we decided to visit Mount Gassan, which is another one of the three sacred mountains. But we visited Mount Gassan to specifically enjoy its natural beauty and not for visiting the shrine located at the mountain summit. We plan to visit the shrine some other time.

Mount Gassan is located about 140 kilometers south of our home and it took us three hours to reach there by car. When we were about 10 kilometers away from the base of Mount Gassan, we started seeing beautiful scenery all around us. So we stopped our car near a bridge over Gassan Lake and got out of the car to enjoy the stunning views. Beautiful fresh green color of the lake, green forest, and mountain range in the background was so serene and peaceful.

A signboard on the road indicating the way to Mount Gassan

Gassan Lake and forest along with a mountain in the background

Gassan Lake

Hubby standing on a bridge over Gassan Lake

Another bridge over Gassan Lake

Hubby standing on a bridge over Gassan Lake with another bridge seen in the background

After another 15 minutes of car ride we reached the foot of Mount Gassan. We could drive further from the foot of the mountain till the eighth stage of Mount Gassan where Ubasawa car parking lot is located at an altitude of 1160 meters. We paid 1000 Yen for parking our car. After getting out of the car, we saw Mount Gassan, Ubagatake Peak, and Mount Yudono right in front of us. Mount Yudono has a height of 1500 meters above sea level, and the peak of this mountain is located about four kilometers southwest of Mount Gassan. Ubagatake Peak is located to the west of Mount Gassan. We took a few photos of the mountains from the parking lot.

Ubagatake Peak is seen just to the left side of the center and Mount Gassan is partly seen on the right side of the photo. A few hills are also seen in the foreground.

Mount Yudono on the left side and a part of Ubagatake peak on the right side of the photo

Skiing area on Ubagatake Peak

I am standing at Ubasawa car parking lot with a mountain range in the background

I am standing at the car parking area with Ubagatake Peak in the background

Ubasawa car parking lot is rather big and while walking towards the exit of the parking lot, we reached a particular spot from where we got a beautiful panoramic view of the mountains. The scenery was breathtaking. We again took a few photos of the mountains from this position and angle.

Panoramic view of Mount Yudono, Ubagatake Peak, and Mount Gassan

Mount Yudono

Ubagatake Peak along with a few small hills in the foreground

Mount Gassan

A part of Ubagatake Peak

Another part of Ubagatake Peak

After coming out of the car parking lot, we walked towards the lower station of the lift service that takes visitors to the top of Ubagatake Peak. As we walked towards the lower lift station, the snow covered Ubagatake Peak became more and more distinct. We could see many skiers who looked like tiny dots moving around on Ubagatake Peak. We also saw a few snowmobiles parked around us.

Hubby standing next to an information notice board adjacent to the car parking area

We are walking towards Ubagatake Peak

Ubagatake Peak

Another view of Ubagatake Peak

Snow covered Ubagatake Peak

Skiers seen as tiny dots on snow covered Ubagatake Peak

Skiers can be distinguished in this photo

A snowmobile we saw while walking towards the lower lift station

After walking for about 5 minutes, we reached the snow covered area of Ubagatake Peak somewhere at an altitude of 1190 meters. We just wished to see the beautiful natural views around us and did not intend to ski. So we wore summer shoes and did not have ski gear with us. We walked on snow covered mountain for some time. It was a bit difficult to walk on snow with our summer shoes but it was really fun. After about 15 minutes of walking on the snow, we reached the lower station of the lift service located at an altitude of 1240 meters. We saw many skiers using the lift service to go up to the top of Ubagatake Peak. At this point, we turned around and started walking back towards the car parking area. There were many skiers (and snowboarders) returning back after skiing. Hubby got very excited to see so many skiers around him, and so he felt like skiing. Since ski gear hire facility is not available at this stage of the mountain, he just tried to slip and slide on the snow. It was so funny to watch him. I compiled a video of me walking towards the lower lift station and hubby sliding down the snow covered mountain.

I am walking towards the lower lift station on snow covered mountain

I am walking on snow

A snowboarder returning towards car parking area

Lower station of the lift service

Lower lift station with several visitors

Ski lift taking visitors to a height of 1540 meters on Ubagatake Peak

Closer view of the lift chairs

A compiled video of me walking towards the lower lift station and hubby sliding down the mountain

Hubby tired after sliding down the mountain

Hubby tired and posing

Hubby was rather tired after sliding down a small portion of the mountain. So after returning back to the car parking area, he drank one liter of cold drinks to drench his thirst.

Hubby drinking a cold drink

Hubby at Ubasawa car parking lot

It was really so much fun to visit Mount Gassan. We loved the natural views and the snow covered mountains, and enjoyed watching people skiing and snowboarding in the month of June.

Mount Haguro

On October 31st, hubby and I visited Mount Haguro in Yamagata prefecture. Mt. Haguro is one of the three sacred mountains clustered together in the ancient province of Dewa. The three mountains are collectively known as Dewa sanzan. The other two mountains are Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudano. The area is a major pilgrimage destination for the mountain priests known as yamabushi and the followers of Shugendo sect. The practice of Shinto and Buddhist worship on Mt. Haguro was first established in A.D. 593 by Prince Hachiko, son of Emperor Sushun. Leaving Nara and sailing the Japan Sea, Prince Hachiko landed at Yaotome beach, present day Tsuruoka city. Under the guidance of eight local girls and a sacred bird, a crow with three legs, Prince Hachiko made his way up Mt. Haguro and established Dewa sanzan as a place of worship. Gassan shrine is located at the top of Mt. Gassan (1984 meters high) and Yudano shrine is located halfway up Mt. Yudano (1504 meters high). Mt. Haguro is the most easily accessible and the smallest of the three mountains with a peak at only 414 meters above sea level. A shrine named Sanjin Gosaiden is located at the top of Mt. Haguro. This shrine holds the deities from all three Dewa sanzan shrines thereby making it the most important and unique of the three. The shrines of Mt. Yudano and Mt. Gassan are closed during winter season due to snowfall and therefore prayers are collectively offered to the Gods of all the shrines at Sanjin Gosaiden which is open year round.

Mt. Haguro is located less than 15 km away from Tsuruoka city in Yamagata prefecture. The other two mountain peaks are some 20 km south from it. The base of Mt. Haguro is about 100 kilometers from our home and it took hubby and me 2.5 hours to reach there by our car. As we neared the mountain, we saw a huge beautiful grand gate named o-torii. O-torii represents the gateway to the entrance of the sacred precincts where shrine deities reside. The vermilion-lacquered o-torii was built in 1923. It is 21 meters high, 15 meters wide, and is the second biggest in Japan now.

O-torii

We reached the base of Mt. Haguro at about 11.30 am, and so we had an early lunch at a small Japanese style restaurant and then visited the mountain. The lunch-set made using mountain vegetables (sansai) as the ingredients blended together very well and created mellow flavors.

Lunch-set made using mountain vegetables as ingredients

We can reach the shrine located at the peak of Mt. Haguro by car itself as the mountain is not so high. But the traditional approach to the shrine is via a walking trail that leads through a cedar forest over 2446 stone steps from the base to the summit of the mountain. This climb would usually take around one hour if we are in a reasonably good shape and do not dally too much. The climb begins at a torii gate located at the base. Just following this torii gate is another beautiful red colored front gate named Zuishinmon. Past this gate are the precincts of the Dewa sanzan shrine. After passing through Zuishinmon gate, we had to descend the first flights of stone steps over Mamako hill slope for about ten minutes or so. I was a bit surprised that instead of climbing up we were descending down! Immediately after the descent, we reached a place having many small shrines. Hubby and I prayed at these shrines.

Hubby standing at the base of Mt. Haguro in front of torii gate

Torii gate

Notice board next to torii gate showing the map of Mt. Haguro

Zuishinmon gate

Mamako hill slope descent

Many small shrines

Me ringing the bell of a small shrine

Hubby ringing the bell of another small shrine

On walking a bit further, we reached a beautiful red lacquered holy bridge named Shinkyo that crosses River Haraigawa. From the bridge, we got a beautiful view of the Suga Waterfall and rugged cliffs that made for a stunning scene.

A part of red-lacquered Shinkyo Bridge and River Haraigawa

Me standing on Shinkyo Bridge with Suga Waterfall in the background

The well-marked 1.8 kilometers pilgrimage stone steps trail to the summit of Mt. Haguro winds its way through a forest which is thick with ancient cedar trees that are 300 to 600 years old. These trees have a mysterious appearance even in full sunlight. The stone steps from Zuishinmon gate to the mountain summit as well as cedar tree lines (sugi-namiki) on both sides of the steps were constructed by Tenyu Betto, 50th chief priest of Dewa sanzan in 1648. It took 13 years to complete them and they are designated as national precious natural monuments. Along the long stone staircase steps are the ichi-no-saka, ni-no-saka, and san-no-saka areas of steep climbing.

Me standing at the beginning of ichi-no-saka staircase steps

On the left hand side of the beginning of the ichi-no-saka steep climbing area is a cedar tree named ‘Jiji cedar’ (old man cedar) which is a national treasure. The height of the tree is 48 meters and the trunk is 11.5 meters at the base. It is more than 1000 years old.

Jiji cedar tree

After walking further for about two minutes, we saw a beautiful and graceful five storied pagoda on the left hand side of the ichi-no-saka area. The pagoda was surrounded by cedars. It is traditionally said that the five storied pagoda was built by a military commander Taira no Masakado from 931 to 937. A classic text says that Fujiwara no Ujiie, a court noble, rebuilt it in 1372. The 600 year old pagoda is a five storied construction made entirely from wood and has thin wooden shingled roof. The pagoda is 29 meters high and was built without a single nail. It is designated as a national treasure. The pagoda looked so elegant in the forest and the autumn sunlight seemed to become more profound. We took several photos of the pagoda from various angles.

Five storied pagoda surrounded by cedar trees

Five storied pagoda

View of the pagoda from another angle

Detailed design of the wooden pagoda

Hubby and the pagoda

From the pagoda the climb to the mountain summit began in earnest. It is supposed to be easy to walk the trail and is actually not particularly steep. But I am not in a very good shape due to lack of daily-exercise. I was very tired while climbing the beginning of ni-no-saka steep area. So we gave up climbing by the traditional approach, descended back to the Zuishinmon gate, and then went to the summit of Mt. Haguro by our car.

Me standing near the end of ichi-no-saka stone steps

It took us about 15 minutes to go from the base to the summit of Mt. Haguro by our car. There was a toll road and we had to pay 400 Yen to reach the summit. On our way, we saw the beautiful colors of autumn all around us in the mountain. On reaching the summit we saw that there were many cars and sightseeing buses in the parking area. I felt a bit relieved to know that a large number of people used the modern approach of transportation to reach the mountain summit.

Autumn colors on our way to the summit by car

Even after reaching the summit, we had to walk for about 10 minutes to reach the main shrine. The way to the shrine was very peaceful. On our way we saw seven small shrines standing in a line.

Me walking towards the main shrine at the mountain summit

Five of the seven small shrines standing in a line

Just before reaching the main shrine, we saw the Buddhist temple bell (bonsho) and belfry (shoro). The bell, inscribed with the year 1275, is said to have been donated by the Kamakura Shogun, who was thankful for having repulsed the Mongol fleet the year before. It is the largest bell in Tohoku region and third largest in Japan. The bell is 3.14 meters tall with a diameter of 1.85 meters, and weighs 10 tons. The thatched gable roof of the belfry retains the style of early Edo period. In 1618, Mogami Genjiro Ienobu, the feudal lord of Yamagata, rebuilt this belfry which collapsed during a typhoon the previous year. Both the bell and the belfry are designated as national important cultural property.

Bell and belfry along with a monument in the front

Another view of the bell and belfry

Me standing in front of the bell and belfry

Adjacent to the bell and belfry is the main shrine worship hall building called Sanjin Gosaiden. This shrine is unique as it enshrines the deities of all the three scared mountains of Dewa, which makes it the most important of the three. This shrine can be visited throughout the year, even in winter. The date of its foundation is unknown, but the main building of the present shrine was rebuilt at the time of 75th Betto (the chief priest), Kakujun, in 1818. The building is 28.2 meters high, 26 meters wide, and 20 meters in depth. The thatched roof made from kaya trees is 2.1 meter thick. No other wooden building with a thatched roof is so large in Japan as this. This main shrine hall building is a splendid red-lacquered structure and it is designated as national important cultural property. We prayed in front of all the three mountain deities.

Sanjin Gosaiden shrine

Hubby standing in front of Sanjin Gosaiden shrine

Thatched roof of the shrine

Sanjin Gosaiden enshrines the deities of all the three mountains of Dewa

Signs showing three different shrine names

Altar area of one of the three deities

We stayed at Sanjin Gosaiden shrine for about 20 minutes and enjoyed the architecture of the building. On returning to the car parking area at the mountain summit, hubby again had lunch at a restaurant located nearby. Due to all the climbing we did earlier in the day, he was very hungry again and ate curry rice served with a pork cutlet.

Hubby eating curry rice

After hubby’s second lunch, we returned back home. It was a 2.5 hours car ride and I slept the entire way as I was rather tired due to climbing the stone steps of Mt. Haguro. We really liked our trip to Mt. Haguro. I especially liked the five storied pagoda and Sanjin Gosaiden shrine very much.