Uesugi Clan Mausoleum

As I wrote in the previous post, on 13th July hubby and I had been to Uesugi Jinja Shrine in Yonezawa City of Yamagata prefecture. Afterwards we visited Uesugi Clan Mausoleum located in the same city. Uesugi Clan Mausoleum is the final resting place for a long line of the Uesugi Clan. The tomb of the clan founder, Uesugi Kenshin, is located in the center of the mausoleum. And the tombs housing the remains of up to 12 generations of his descendants, who were the lords of Yonezawa domain Uesugi Clan, are spread out to both sides of the central tomb. A small shrine is built on each tomb. Uesugi Clan Mausoleum is spread over an area of two hectares, and covers 110 meters from east to west and 181 meters from south to north. The mausoleum was designated as a national important cultural asset in January 1984.

At about 2 pm on the afternoon of 13th July, hubby and I left Uesugi Jinja Shrine and next visited Uesugi Clan Mausoleum. The mausoleum is located just 1.5 kilometers west of Uesugi Shrine, and it took us only a few minutes of car ride to reach the car parking area located adjacent to the mausoleum. We walked up to the entrance area of the mausoleum, and saw ‘Uesugi Bamboo’ crest adorned on a banner that is displayed at the entrance gate of the mausoleum. ‘Uesugi Bamboo’ was the family crest of Uesugi Clan, and the crest is also known as ‘Bamboo and Sparrow’ crest because it is a combination of bamboo and sparrows. We loved the design of the crest.

I am standing in front of the entrance gate of Uesugi Clan Mausoleum

‘Uesugi Bamboo’ crest adorned on a banner displayed at the entrance gate

‘Uesugi Bamboo’ crest

We walked past the entrance gate and entered inside the mausoleum premises. Inside the premises, we saw a ticket counter located to our left side just next to the entrance area. We bought tickets worth 350 yen per person as admission fee to enter further into the premises. Next we walked along a gravel pathway surrounded by huge cryptomeria trees all around. In fact, the tomb-shrines are located in the midst of a dense cryptomeria grove which provides a hushed and tranquil atmosphere to the sacred site of the mausoleum. While walking, we also saw blooming hydrangea flowers along the pathway.

Hubby standing on the gravel pathway surrounded by huge cryptomeria trees inside the mausoleum premises

I am standing on the gravel pathway

I am standing next to blue blooming hydrangea flowers

Towards the end of the 100 meters long gravel pathway, we saw another gate leading to the most sacred area of the mausoleum where the tomb-shrines of Uesugi Clan are located. Right in front of the gate, we saw two banner flags located at either end of the gate. The banner to our left side had the Kanji character of ‘Dragon’ written on it, and the one to our right side had the first character ‘Bi’ of ‘Bishamonten’ written on it. Uesugi Kenshin was a skillful warrior known for being fond of various war banners. The 'Dragon' banner flags were raised on the battlefield when Kenshin wanted his army to charge and attack the enemy. The 'Bishamonten' banner was Kenshin's personal standard and was said to have been reserved for his entrances and victory marches.

'Dragon' (left) and 'Bishamonten' (right) banners located at either end of the second gate. This gate leads to the most sacred area of the mausoleum premises.

We saw the tomb-shrine of the clan founder Uesugi Kenshin located in the center of the most sacred area of the mausoleum premises. And the tomb-shrines housing the remains of up to 12 generations of his descendants are spread out to both sides of the central tomb. The tomb-shrines of odd-numbered descendant successors are located to the right side (orientation with respect to us) of the central tomb. And the tomb-shrines of even-numbered descendant successors are located to the left side of the central tomb.

View of the most sacred area of the mausoleum premises right in front of us. Uesugi Kenshin’s tomb-shrine is in the center, and the tomb-shrines of two of his descendants are also seen.

View of the mausoleum premises with the tomb-shrines of odd-numbered descendant successors to our right side

View of the mausoleum premises with the tomb-shrines of even-numbered descendant successors to our left side

In the mausoleum standing by itself in the recess at the center is the tomb-shrine of Uesugi Kenshin. Uesugi Kenshin was a warlord during Sengoku period and was the most prominent Samurai and founder of Uesugi Clan. He passed away at Kasugayama Castle in Joetsu City in 1578. During the funeral ceremony, his remains were clad in armor and laid in a large pot-shaped earthenware coffin, and then placed in a tomb in the castle. His successor Uesugi Kagekatsu relocated to Aizu in 1598 and to Yonezawa in 1601 where he founded Yonezawa Domain Uesugi Clan. Accordingly the body of Uesugi Kenshin was also moved to Yonezawa Castle. A small Buddhist temple was built in the castle premises in 1612 where Uesugi Kenshin’s remains were buried. During Meiji period in 1871, the Buddhist temple rites were changed to Shinto style shrine rituals. Yonezawa Castle was destroyed by the order of the Meiji government in 1873, and then the shrine buildings were moved to what used to be the inner palace of the main enclosure of the castle in 1876. At that time Uesugi Kenshin’s remains along with the remains of the descendant successors were moved to the present sacred location in the mausoleum premises. In front of the tomb-shrine of Uesugi Kenshin, there is a wooden roofed Mon Gate with an offertory box placed in front of it. The tomb-shrine is a small elegant wooden building built in Nagare-zukuri architectural style. A simple stone monument is erected in front of the building. The atmosphere around the tomb-shrine was so peaceful and serene. I prayed in front of the tomb for peace and happiness.

Hubby standing in front of the tomb-shrine of Uesugi Kenshin

Wooden Mon Gate of the tomb-shrine

I am praying standing near the Mon Gate

Wooden tomb-shrine building containing the remains of Uesugi Kenshin is seen (partly) in the background and a stone monument is seen in the foreground

Hubby and the tomb-shrine building of Uesugi Kenshin

The tomb-shrines housing the remains of up to 12 generations of Uesugi Kenshin’s descendants are spread out to both sides of the central tomb-shrine of Kenshin. Five tomb-shrines of odd-numbered descendant successors are located to the right side (orientation with respect to us) of the central tomb-shrine. The first tomb-shrine adjacent to the central tomb enshrines the third generation descendant Uesugi Sadakatsu. Likewise, the second, the third, the fourth, and the fifth tomb-shrines enshrine the fifth generation descendant Uesugi Tsunanori, the seventh generation descendant Uesugi Munenori, the ninth generation descendant Uesugi Shigesada, and the eleventh generation descendant Uesugi Haruhiro, respectively. The 3rd, 5th, and 7th generation descendants were deposited in the tomb after cremation. Their tomb-shrines are made of Japanese zelkova and built in Irimoya-zukuri architectural style. The remains of the 9th and 11th generation descendants were buried. Their tomb-shrines are made from Japanese cedar and cypress and built in simple Hogyo-zukuri architectural style, which shows the clan’s weaker financial condition at that time.

First tomb-shrine located to the right side of the central tomb enshrines the third generation descendant Uesugi Sadakatsu

Second tomb-shrine enshrines the fifth generation descendant Uesugi Tsunanori

Third tomb-shrine enshrines the seventh generation descendant Uesugi Munenori

Fourth tomb-shrine enshrines the ninth generation descendant Uesugi Shigesada

Fifth tomb-shrine enshrines the eleventh generation descendant Uesugi Haruhiro

Six tomb-shrines of even-numbered descendant successors are located to the left side (orientation with respect to us) of the central tomb-shrine. The first tomb-shrine adjacent to the central tomb enshrines the second generation descendant Uesugi Kagekatsu. Likewise, the second, the third, the fourth, the fifth, and the sixth tomb-shrines enshrine the fourth generation descendant Uesugi Tsunakatsu, the sixth generation descendant Uesugi Yoshinori, the eighth generation descendant Uesugi Munefusa, the tenth generation descendant Uesugi Harunori (Yozan), and the twelfth generation descendant Uesugi Narisada, respectively. The 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th generation descendants were deposited in the tomb after cremation, and their tomb-shrines are built in Irimoya-zukuri architectural style. The remains of the 10th and 12th generation descendants were buried, and their tomb-shrines are built in simple Hogyo-zukuri architectural style, which shows the personality and the weaker financial condition of the clan at that time. Also, in between the tomb-shrines of the second and the fourth generation descendant successors, there is a simple stone monument erected in memory of the fourteenth generation descendant Uesugi Mochinori. In addition, in between the tomb-shrines of the tenth and the twelfth generation descendant successors, there is a tomb-shrine of Uesugi Akitaka. He was the biological oldest son of the tenth generation descendant Uesugi Harunori (Yozan), and the adopted son of the eleventh generation descendant Uesugi Haruhiro. Uesugi Akitaka was not the successor lord of the clan as he passed away when he was just 19 years old. The tomb-shrine of Uesugi Akitaka is also built in Hogyo-zukuri architectural style.

First tomb-shrine located to the left side of the central tomb enshrines the second generation descendant Uesugi Kagekatsu

A stone monument (behind the wooden gate) erected in memory of the fourteenth generation descendant Uesugi Mochinori

Second tomb-shrine enshrines the fourth generation descendant Uesugi Tsunakatsu

Third tomb-shrine enshrines the sixth generation descendant Uesugi Yoshinori

Fourth tomb-shrine enshrines the eighth generation descendant Uesugi Munefusa

Fifth tomb-shrine enshrines the tenth generation descendant Uesugi Harunori (Yozan)

A tomb-shrine located in the recess enshrines Uesugi Akitaka

Sixth tomb-shrine enshrines the twelfth generation descendant Uesugi Narisada

We enjoyed the views and the hushed atmosphere of the sacred enclosure for some more time. We saw a stone Stupa located at the west end of the mausoleum premises. Just next to the tomb-shrine of the twelfth generation descendant successor, we saw a massive cryptomeria tree with huge trunk.

Sacred area of the mausoleum premises as viewed from the southwest corner

A stone Stupa

Hubby standing next to a cryptomeria tree located next to the tomb-shrine of Uesugi Narisada

The trunk of the tree is huge

At this point, we finished the tour of Uesugi Clan Mausoleum. At about 4 pm, we started back on our drive home to Yurihonjo City. We had dinner of beef curry with rice and Oyakodon with Miso soup at a restaurant in a highway rest stop. It took us about four hours of car ride to reach our home.

Beef curry with rice

Oyakodon and Miso soup

Hubby having dinner

We loved visiting Uesugi Clan Mausoleum and learning the historical facts about Uesugi Clan.

Mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu on Mount Kuno

On 4th January hubby and I visited Kunozan Toshogu Shrine in Shizuoka City of Shizuoka prefecture. The shrine is located near the top of Mount Kuno in Suruga Ward of the city. I have written about the history of the shrine in the previous post but I will rewrite that portion of the post here again. Kunozan Toshogu is a Shinto shrine dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu who was the first Shogun of Tokugawa Shogunate. The shrine was the original burial place of Ieyasu. Mount Kuno was originally the site of a Buddhist temple named Kunoji, which dated to at least the early Nara period. In 1568, feudal warlord Takeda Shingen moved the temple to a nearby place that is now called Shimizu-ku, and built a castle on Mount Kuno. In 1582, Takeda clan was defeated by Tokugawa Ieyasu and Suruga province along with Kuno Castle came under the control of Tokugawa clan. Ieyasu formed Edo Government in 1603 and then retired to a nearby Sunpu Castle in 1607. However, he considered Kuno Castle to be important and so he continued to maintain the castle. He wished to be buried at the top of Mount Kuno, and therefore as per his wishes he was buried at the mountaintop after his death in 1616. In 1617, Tokugawa Hidetada, second Shogun and son of Ieyasu, built Kunozan Toshogu Shrine as a memorial shrine for Ieyasu at the site of Kuno Castle. Later on, Tokugawa Iemitsu, third Shogun and grandson of Ieyasu, erected a mausoleum at the burial site of Ieyasu that is located further up Mount Kuno in the shrine premises. At the first anniversary of Ieyasu’s death, his grave was relocated to Nikko (in present day Tochigi prefecture) where a shrine with the same name as Toshogu was built and Ieyasu was deified by Iemistu. However a portion of Ieyasu’s deified spirit is said to still reside on Mount Kuno.

We climbed 1159 stone steps up the walkway from the foot of Mount Kuno to the top and reached Kunozan Toshogu Shrine. I have written in details about the shrine in the previous post. In this post, I will write about the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu that is located deeper in the woods further up Mount Kuno in the shrine premises. After enjoying viewing various buildings in the sacred premises of the shrine, we walked along a pathway towards the right side of Shaden Main Building and saw a beautiful gate named Byomon located northwest of Honden Main Hall. It is a gorgeous red colored gate with an arched Chinese style roof with exquisite gold accents and painted decorations. This gate is located adjacent to the extravagantly decorated western wall of Honden Hall, and leads to Tokugawa Ieyasu’s mausoleum. The gate is designated as an important cultural property.

I am standing on the walkway leading to Byomon Gate. Byomon Gate (left side) and the western wall of Honden Hall (right side) are partially seen in the photo.

Byomon Gate

Gold accents and painted decorations on the roof and ceiling of the gate

We passed through Byomon Gate and climbed up the stone steps along the walkway that leads to the mausoleum. We noted that in some places, the walkway has flat paved path and no stone steps. This flat path portion has beautiful stone lanterns on either side of the walkway, which are dedicated to the warlords who served Tokugawa Ieyasu. We climbed up the stone steps or walked along the flat portion of the walkway and enjoyed the serene beauty of the forest all around us. After about ten minutes of walking, we reached a stone Torii Gate which marks the entrance to the mausoleum area.

Way to the mausoleum and the stone Torii Gate

After passing through the stone Torii Gate, we were at the mausoleum area. The mausoleum called Shinbyo is located at the highest point of Mount Kuno. As per Tokugawa Ieyasu’s wish, after his death on 1st June 1616, he was buried here at the top of Mount Kuno. Initially a miniature shrine called Hokora was built at the burial site and dedicated to Ieyasu. Afterwards Tokugawa Iemitsu, third Shogun and grandson of Ieyasu, built this mausoleum. As per the dying instructions of Ieyasu, the mausoleum is built facing westward towards Okazaki Castle in Aichi prefecture where he was born. At the first anniversary of Ieyasu’s death, his grave was relocated to Nikko. However a portion of his deified spirit is said to still reside on Mount Kuno. The mausoleum is a type of jeweled stone pagoda called Hoto consisting of a foundation stone, a cylindrical body, a four-sided pyramid roof, and a finial. The mausoleum is 5.5 meters in height and has a circumference of 8 meters. It is designated as an important cultural property. Right after passing through the Torii Gate, we saw two huge stone lanterns on either side of the walkway in the mausoleum premises. In addition, we also saw a couple of stone lanterns and a copper lantern located in front of the mausoleum. We walked around the mausoleum and viewed its shape and architectural design in details. We noted that in contrast to the exuberance of other buildings of the shrine, the mausoleum is relatively simple and austere. We took several photos of the mausoleum from various positions and angles.

A huge stone lantern located on the left side of the walkway leading to the mausoleum. The mausoleum is partly seen in the background on the right side of the photo.

I am standing next to a stone lantern located on the right side of the walkway

The mausoleum along with a stone lantern and a copper lantern in front of it

Copper lantern in front of the mausoleum

Front view of the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu and a stone lantern

The mausoleum faces westward and lies in an enclosed area

Enlarged front view of the mausoleum as viewed from the west

Roof and finial of the mausoleum

Crest of Tokugawa clan on the mausoleum

The mausoleum as viewed from the south

The mausoleum enclosed by a stone fence as viewed from the southeast

Back view of the mausoleum as viewed from the east

While walking around the mausoleum, we saw the tomb of the favorite horse of Tokugawa Ieyasu located at the backside of the mausoleum on the southeast corner of the premises. We loved the serene and calm atmosphere of the mountaintop and walked in the mausoleum area for some time. While standing at the northwest area, we noted that many people were making votive offering by trying to push and stick coins into the trunk of a huge cedar tree located at the southern area of the premises. The tree is more than 350 years old and is worshiped as a ‘money tree’. This tree called ‘Kane no Naruki’ is very popular among the visitors because of this unique form of making a wish.

Tomb of the favorite horse of Tokugawa Ieyasu

Mausoleum area as viewed from the northwest

Kane no Naruki tree standing straight and tall (indicated by red arrows)

Afterwards we left the mausoleum area and the shrine premises, and walked down Mount Kuno. After about an hour, we reached back to the base of the mountain. At the base area, there are many shops that sell shrine related souvenirs and food items. In addition, all the shops specialize in strawberry products. This is because Suruga Ward and the surrounding area of Mount Kuno are famous for growing world-class strawberries. We bought a few souvenirs, had lunch at a restaurant, and had strawberry flavored delicious softcream.

Strawberry flavored softcream

Hubby having softcream

At about 3.30 pm, we left Mount Kuno area and drove towards Utsunomiya City in Tochigi prefecture. On our way, we got beautiful stunning views of Mount Fuji. We also saw many fresh green-tea plantations on the surrounding hills in Shizuoka prefecture. Shizuoka prefecture is the largest tea growing region of Japan.

Mount Fuji

Another view of Mount Fuji

A hill in Shizuoka City

Tea plantation on the hill

That night we stayed at a hotel in Utsunomiya City. On 5th January, we left the hotel early in the morning and drove back to our home in Akita prefecture. We had a fun filled New Year holidays.