Yamadera Temple - part 1

On 25th October 2014, hubby and I visited Yamadera Temple located in Yamagata City of Yamagata prefecture. We went there by our car. The temple is located about 190 kilometers south-southeast of our home in Yurihonjo City and we had to drive for about 3 hours on an expressway and a national highway to reach the temple. We were surrounded by colorful autumn foliage all the way up to the temple. The expressway and the national highway were so scenic and beautiful due to the fabulous autumn colors all around. We stopped at a couple of parking areas along the way to click photos of the autumn foliage. Interestingly at the second parking area, located somewhere midway between Yurihonjo and Yamadera Temple, we saw a unique combination of several snow covered mountains along with a couple of autumn foliage covered mountains. It was a wonderful experience to see right in front of us the snow covered mountains named Yudonosan (marked as 1), Ubagatake (2), Gassan (3), Takahiyama (5), and Kuromoriyama (6) in the far background and the mountains named Yatsudateyama (4) and Fumiyozan (7) covered with glorious autumn foliage in the foreground. After enjoying the marvelous views, we continued on our way to Yamadera Temple and reached a car parking area near the temple. We parked our car and started walking along a street leading to the temple.

Autumn foliage along the national highway

Yet more colored foliage along the expressway

Autumn foliage covered mountains as viewed from the first parking area where we took rest

I am standing at the first parking area along with glorious autumn colors in the background

Autumn colors near the second parking area where we took rest

Snow covered Mounts Yudonosan (marked as 1), Ubagatake (2), and Gassan (3) in the far background and Mount Yatsudateyama (4) covered with autumn foliage in the foreground as viewed from the second parking area

Snow covered Mounts Takahiyama (5) and Kuromoriyama (6) in the far background and Mounts Yatsudateyama (4) and Fumiyozan (7) covered with autumn foliage in the foreground

Yamadera Temple is a scenic old Buddhist temple of Tendai sect located in the mountains about 12 kilometers northeast of Yamagata City in Yamagata prefecture. The official name of the temple is Hojusan Risshakuji and it is known to be one of the most amazing temples of Japan. The temple complex has a vast area which extends from the base of Mount Hoshuyama to all the way high up its steep mountainside. Various buildings of the temple are built into and on rock ledges of this mountain. The temple was founded during Heian period in the year 860 AD by Buddhist priest Jikaku Daishi in response to the imperial edict of Emperor Seiwa. Although Jikaku Daishi erected many temples throughout Tohoku region, he put particular effort into the construction of Risshakuji Temple to make it exceptional, and established a seminary in the temple premises. The temple developed into the major Heian period temple for rural Dewa province. During Kamakura period, the temple became the center of Tohoku Buddhist culture when more than 300 monks and 1000 devotees resided at the top and bottom of Mount Hoshuyama. During the feudal Ashikaga Muromachi period (1336-1573), the temple buildings and the mountain were destroyed and temporarily fell into decline. For example, during a war in the early 14th century this temple was destroyed by a fire but was rebuilt in 1356. In 1521, most of the buildings of the temple were again razed by a fire during yet another war but were restored in 1543. During Edo period, the temple again became a powerful institution and possessed a fief of 1420 Koku, and officially received about 213000 kilograms of rice yearly from the Shogunate. The temple once again prospered and became a center for religious culture. In 1689 the famous poet Matsuo Basho visited the temple and composed a short Haiku poem about the stillness and silence of the area. Presently the temple complex has an area of about 1155000 square meters consisting of cliffs and mountains with more than 40 temple buildings distributed throughout. The temple complex stretches high up into the rocky mountain with many small buildings scattered all over the mountain. In fact many buildings are precariously located along a dangerous cliff and some buildings are located right on the top of the cliff. So visitors have to climb a total of 1015 narrow steps starting from the foot of the mountain, and continue among huge trees in the mountain forest to reach the buildings located at the top. The temple has been designated as a place of scenic beauty and historic site.

While walking towards the entrance of Yamadera Risshakuji Temple, we followed a street located adjacent to the mountain. This street is surrounded on either side with several shops selling walking sticks, snacks, and souvenirs. While walking, to our left we saw a wooden monument with ‘Oku no Hosomichi Risshakuji’ inscribed on it. We ignored the first two flights of staircases to our left and after about 5 minutes of walking we reached the third staircase. We climbed about 40 stone steps of this staircase and reached the front of the Main Hall of the temple located near the base of the mountain.

I am standing next to a wooden monument with ‘Oku no Hosomichi Risshakuji’ inscribed on it

I am standing next to a stone monument located near the base of the third staircase that leads to the Main Hall of the temple

Hubby climbing up the steps

The Main Hall of Yamadera Risshakuji Temple complex is a large building known as Konpon Chudo. The temple complex starts with this Main Hall and is located at the base of the mountain. Konpon Chudo has been designated as an important cultural property. The original building was built during Heian period in the year 860 when the temple was founded by Jikaku Daishi. Over history, the temple Main Hall building was destroyed and rebuilt several times. During a war in the early 14th century the Main Hall was destroyed by a fire but was reconstructed in 1356 by Shiba Kaneyori, the first lord of Yamagata Castle. The present Konpon Chudo building exists from that time and is a Muromachi period structure. It is a one story wooden building constructed in Irimoya Zukuri architectural style with a hip-gabled roof and Goken Shimen structure. Goken Shimen structure means the building is Goken (about 9.09 meters) in east-west direction by Niken (about 3.64 meters) in north-south direction, and surrounded by eaves in all directions. About 60% of the building is made out of beech wood, which is rare as a building material. The hall is considered to be the oldest beech wood structure in Japan. The style and format of Tendai sect Buddhist seminary building is very well preserved in the hall structure. The principal image enshrined inside the hall is a hidden seated wooden statue of Yakushi Nyorai said to have been hand carved by Jikaku Daishi himself. This main statue is flanked by standing statues of attendants Nikko Bosatsu and Gakko Bosatsu as well as twelve heavenly warrior generals Juunishi Ten. Statues of Monju Bosatsu and Bishamonten are also enshrined inside the hall. Also inside this hall a sacred flame is stored that is said to have been perpetually burning since Yamadera Temple was founded. This flame had been started from the flame that was carried to Enryakuji Temple from China in the year 788 AD by the priest Dengyo Daishi Saicho. It should be mentioned that Enryakuji Temple (check details in the blog posts here and here) located on Mount Hiei in Otsu City is the head temple of Tendai sect, to which Yamadera Temple belongs. Even after 1155 years the flame still shines as ‘Fumetsu no Hoto’ or the ‘undying light of Buddhism’ inside Yamadera Temple. Interestingly, this flame was brought back in reverse to Enryakuji Temple on Mount Hiei to light anew the flame of the temple that was reconstructed after being set on fire by the order of Oda Nobunaga.

On reaching the front of Konpon Chudo Main Hall of the temple, we saw two beautiful stone lanterns on either side of the paved pathway that leads to the entrance of the hall. The wooden hall looked so elegant and beautiful, and we took several photos of the building from various positions and angles. After walking along the paved pathway for a few meters, we saw Temizuya water fountain to our right side. Temizuya is used for ritual purification before praying at the hall. At the fountain, we used a bamboo scooper to take some water and poured it over our hands and purified ourselves. Just in front of the hall we saw a large cauldron of burning incense, smoke from which is believed to bestow good health. I lit a bunch of incense sticks to the already fuming stock and with my hands wafted the incense fumes over hubby’s body as well as mine. I hope that we will stay healthy for a long time. After walking past the cauldron we saw yet another pair of stone lanterns on either side of the pathway. On reaching the entrance of the hall, I noted that intricate patterns are carved on the front as well as the ceiling of the wooden building. We climbed a few wooden steps and reached the front verandah of the hall. A big wooden statue of Hotei is placed on the top of an offertory box located on the verandah near the entrance of the hall. Hotei is the deity of abundance and happiness and it is said that our wish will come true by touching the statue while making a wish. I offered money into the offertory box and touched the entire surface of the statue and prayed. Inside the hall, we saw two extremely beautiful Mandalas hanging from the front wall of the hall. It should be mentioned here that the principal statue of Yakushi Nyorai enshrined inside the hall is hidden and no one is allowed to see it. Yakushi Nyorai and other statues described in the previous paragraph are kept under padlock in the hall. However, these hidden statues are displayed to the public every 50 years, and were last displayed in 2013. Although the praying area of the hall was open, visitors were not allowed to enter inside the hall. So we prayed from outside standing on the verandah of the hall.

I am standing next to a stone lantern located along a pathway in front of Konpon Chudo Main Hall of the temple

Another stone lantern located on the other side of the pathway

Hubby standing in front of Konpon Chudo Main Hall

The Main Hall as viewed from the front south side

Yet another view of the hall along with a large cauldron of burning incense (left foreground)

The hall as viewed from the southwest

I am washing my hands at Temizuya water fountain

I am lighting a bunch of incense sticks in the cauldron of burning incense

Burning incense sticks and fumes

Another pair of stone lanterns located on either side of the pathway in front of the hall

Front view of the Main Hall

Hubby and the Main Hall

Intricate patterns carved on the front and the ceiling of the wooden hall

I am standing next to the wooden statue of Hotei placed on the top of an offertory box located on the verandah near the entrance of the hall 

I am praying in front of the statue of Hotei

View inside the Main Hall

A Mandala hanging from the front wall inside the hall

Another Mandala hanging from the wall

Next we started walking towards the west along the paved pathway on the hillside of the mountain near the base itself. After walking for about 20 meters or so, we saw a stone pagoda located to our right side towards north. It is the memorial tower of Emperor Seiwa and is located adjacent to Konpon Chudo Hall. It is the oldest stone pagoda in this mountain temple complex. As discussed earlier, Yamadera Risshakuji Temple was founded by Jikaku Daishi in 860 in response to the imperial edict of Emperor Seiwa. Thereafter the temple and the surrounding towns prospered very much. So after the demise of Emperor Seiwa in 880, this memorial tower was erected and a grand memorial service was held every morning and evening during Obon festival.

Emperor Seiwa Memorial Tower

We continued walking towards the west along the paved pathway near the base of the mountain and saw a stone Torii Gate. We walked past the gate and after walking for another 10 meters or so we saw a shrine named Hie Jinja located to our right side towards the north. It is a branch shrine of Hie Taisha located in Otsu City of Shiga prefecture. Hie Jinja Shrine is a small wooden building that was founded by Jikaku Daishi in 860. A deity named Oyamakui no Kami is enshrined inside. It is a deity of mountain and water, Jinushigami, cultivation and increasing production, and safe childbirth. This deity is also considered to be the guardian deity for Shaka Triad, Yakushi Triad, and Amida Triad located in various buildings of Risshakuji Temple complex. During the Edo period, the deity was regarded as the personal deity of Tokugawa family, and since the Meiji period, it has been regarded as the guardian deity of the imperial palace. Also the shrine was called Sanno Gongen during the Edo period while it was called Sonsha during the Meiji period. Yamadera Sanno festival is held at this shrine on May 17th annually. Near this shrine building, we saw a huge stone statue of a Kokeshi doll over a burial mound. It is called Kokeshi Zuka and was erected in 1968. Here memorial services are held for past Kokeshi makers, their tools, lumbar, trees, discarded or damaged Kokeshi, and for members of the general public.

Stone Torii Gate

Hie Jinja Shrine

Kokeshi Zuka

We walked along the paved pathway for a few more steps and saw statues of the famous poet Matsuo Basho and his companion disciple Kawai Sora located to our left side towards the south. In the summer of 1689, Matsuo Basho and his companion visited Yamadera Temple and composed a beautiful Haiku poem about the stillness and silence of the area. The poem can be translated as follows.

Such stillness-

seeps into the rocks

the cries of the cicadas

This Haiku is one of the most famous poems in Oku no Hosomichi. In fact, we saw a stone inscription of the poem next to the statue of Basho.

Statue of Matsuo Basho (left), a stone inscription of the Haiku poem (center), and statue of Kawai Sora (right)

I am standing next to the statue of Matsuo Basho

I am standing next to the statue of Kawai Sora

We continued walking along the pathway for another 20 meters or so, and saw a building named Jogyo Nembutsu Do Hall located to our right side towards the north. The hall is a wooden Dojo building and has copper roofing with Hogyo Zukuri architectural style. Jikaku Daishi received training of Nembutsu Zanmai meditation during his pilgrimage to Chikurinji Temple located on Mount Wutai Shan in China. After returning to Japan, he mastered and practiced Nembutsu Zanmai in this Dojo Hall. The principal god enshrined inside this hall is a statue of coroneted Amida Nyorai believed to have been made by Jikaku Daishi himself. Tokugawa Shogun family memorial tablets are also enshrined inside. Inside the hall, just at the entrance area there is a statue of Jikaku Daishi in Zazen pose. Initially this hall building was located to the east of Konpon Chudo Main Hall but in 1691 it was rebuilt at the present location to the west of the Main Hall.

Jogyo Nembutsu Do Hall

Statue of Jikaku Daishi in Zazen pose located at the entrance area inside the hall

Statue of coroneted Amida Nyorai inside the hall

Shoro Belfry is located adjacent to (west of) Jogyo Nembutsu Do Hall. The bell inside the belfry is called ‘Joya no Kane’ which means a temple bell that rings out the old year by ringing it 108 times on New Year’s Eve. The bell is also called ‘Shofuku no Kane’ or the bell of bringing happiness. The belfry building is wooden and has copper roofing with Irimoya Zukuri architectural style. The present bell is 1.8 meters high and about 70 centimeters in diameter, and was cast during the latter part of Edo period by the 66th head priest named Yuden of Risshakuji Temple.

Shoro Belfry

At this point, we finished viewing most of the important buildings and structures located near the base of the mountain. Adjacent to Shoro Belfry towards the west, we saw a huge gate named Sanmon. It is an elegant gate that was erected during the latter part of Kamakura period. It is a wooden gate with a thatched roof and gabled Kirizuma Zukuri architectural style. This type of gate is called Yakuimon. Kanji characters of ‘Kaihoku Reikutsu’ are inscribed on the top front of the gate. Near the entrance area of the gate, there is a ticket counter where we purchased tickets worth 300 Yen per person as admission fee to enter inside the gate and continued our walk along the pathway. It should be mentioned that from the entrance area of Yamadera Temple complex, we had slowly and steadily climbed about 215 stone steps along the paved pathway and reached Sanmon Gate. Sanmon Gate is located at the beginning of a trail that leads up the mountainside to the upper area of the temple grounds. The trail is called Sando and visitors have to hike up this trail that leads to a building named Okunoin located at the top of the mountain. The trail has about 800 stone steps and the ascent may take about 40-60 minutes. There are several small temple buildings, stone statues, and Buddhist structures scattered all over the mountain on the way to the top.

Hubby standing in front of a map of the temple complex located near Sanmon Gate

I am standing in front of Sanmon Gate

‘Kaihoku Reikutsu’ inscribed on the top front of the gate

We walked past Sanmon Gate and started our ascent along the trail. We saw many stone lanterns, small statues, and Buddhist structures in the surrounding forest along the way. Soon afterwards we saw a small wooden building named Uba Do Hall located to our right side along the trail. The principal statue enshrined inside the hall is a stone statue of Datsueba. According to Japanese Buddhist folklore, Datsueba is a female demon who lives on the bank of Sanzu River, which lies between this world and the next. She strips the dead people of their clothes as they pass into the next life. In the olden times, pilgrims cleaned their body and soul with the water trickling from between the nearby rocks and wore a new Kimono before continuing the climb up the trail. The discarded Kimono was dedicated to the statue of Datsueba. According to the Jodo sect of Buddhism, below this Uba Do Hall building point is considered hell, and above this point is paradise. So it is said that the earthly desires blocking us from enlightenment begin to fade away with each step we take up the stone stairs on the trail up the mountainside.

I am walking along the trail up the mountainside

Many stone lanterns and Buddhist structures along the trail

Uba Do Hall

Hubby walking up the steps along the trail

A small stone statue along the trail

Enlarged view of the stone statue

The stone steps make a winding path along the trail. We continued walking up the steps and saw many other interesting structures and buildings about which I will write in the next post.

Enryakuji Temple - part 2

On 13th August, hubby and I visited Enryakuji Temple located on Mount Hieizan in Otsu City of Shiga prefecture. The temple is a monastery and is the headquarters of Tendai sect of Japanese Buddhism. The temple is divided into three areas, namely, To-do (east area), Sai-to (west area), and Yokawa. I have written in details about Enryakuji Temple and our visit to To-do main area in the previous post. We enjoyed viewing all the buildings in To-do area, and then visited Sai-to and Yokawa areas of the temple complex on the mountain. After leaving To-do area, first we sent to see Sai-to area. Car parking lot of Sai-to area is located about 1 kilometer west-northwest of To-do area car parking lot and it took us about 3 minutes of car ride to reach Sai-to area. The entrance of Sai-to area and a ticket booth are located adjacent to the car parking lot. We had already purchased tickets worth 1000 Yen per person as admission fee to enter all the three areas of the temple at To-do area itself, so we directly entered the Sai-to area.

I am standing in front of the entrance of Sai-to area of Enryakuji Temple

We entered the Sai-to area and walked along a paved pathway towards the north for about 130 meters and saw two magnificent wooden buildings named Jogyo-do and Hokke-do. Both these buildings are identical structures standing side by side on a raised area. The buildings face southward and are connected to each other via a roofed corridor. Both these buildings were constructed in 1595. The building to the left side, towards the west, is Jogyo-do. The original Jogyo-do was built by the third Chief Tendai Abbot (Zasu) Jikaku Daishi Ennin in the year 851. The principal statue enshrined inside the building is Amida Nyorai. The building is used to train monks for Jogyo-zanmai or ‘constantly walking meditation’, which is one of the four types of meditation Shishu-zanmai practiced in Tendai sect. The building to the right side, towards the east, is Hokke-do. The principal statue enshrined inside this building is Fugen Bosatsu. This building is used to train monks for Hokke-zanmai or the ‘half-walking and half-sitting meditation’ (Dharma Lotus Sutra meditation), which is another one of the Shishu-zanmai meditation. The connecting corridor between the two buildings is a wooden structure and has Karahafu roof. The two buildings and the corridor are shaped in such a way that the whole structure looks like two loads (buildings) suspended from a shoulder carrying pole (corridor). That is why the two buildings are collectively known as Ninai-do or the ‘shoulder-carrying halls’. In fact, Ninai can be interpreted in several different ways. The most popular understanding is ‘Benkei’s Ninai’, which refers to the legendary strength of monk Benkei who is said to have once lifted both the buildings over his shoulders. Another meaning is to illustrate the union between the two temple buildings. The buildings represent the teaching implemented at Enryakuji Temple that the Buddhist invocation Nembutsu and Hokke Lotus Sutra are unified together. Both the buildings have been designated as important cultural assets. We loved the architecture of both the buildings and took several photos of them from various positions and angles.

Jogyo-do building as viewed from the southeast of the building

The front of Jogyo-do

Hokke-do building as viewed from the southwest of the building

The front of Hokke-do

Jogyo-do (left), corridor, and Hokke-do (right)

Hubby standing in front of the corridor

We walked between Jogyo-do and Hokke-do buildings, and continued walking downhill along the paved pathway towards the north side of Sai-to area. After going down the stone steps along the pathway for about 40 meters, we saw a small wooden building named Eryo-do located to our left side towards the west. This building was built in honor of a priest named Eryo Osho (800-859) who is also referred to as Daiyaku Daishi. He was widely known for his great spiritual belief and power. There are many ancient anecdotes about him. He commissioned the building of several famous temples including Sanjusangen-do in Kyoto.

Eryo-do building

We walked further down the stone steps for another 30 meters and reached the ground of a magnificent imposing building named Shaka-do. It is the main temple in the Sai-to area of Mount Hieizan, and is located in the center of the area. The formal name of the building is Tenborin-do and the building faces southward. The original Shaka-do building was completely destroyed by warlord Oda Nobunaga during a battle in 1571 when he burned down all the buildings of Enryakuji Temple on Mount Hieizan. His successor Toyotomi Hideyoshi dismantled a building named Miroku-do (built in 1347) which was the Kon-do Main Hall of Miidera Temple (formerly called Onjo-ji Temple) located at the foot of Mount Hieizan in Otsu City. Hideyoshi then forcibly relocated, modified, and rebuilt the dismantled structure at the present location as a replacement building for the destroyed Shaka-do in 1595. The present Shaka-do building is the oldest building on Mount Hieizan, and it has been designated as an important cultural asset. The principal image enshrined inside this building is a standing wooden statue of Shaka Nyorai which is believed to have been hand carved by Dengyo Daishi Saicho, the founder of Tendai sect Buddhism, himself. This wooden statue has also been designated as an important cultural asset. We loved viewing the wonderful architecture of the building and took several photos of the building and the surrounding ground. In the building ground, we saw several colorful posters explaining the history of Tendai sect Buddhism and Shaka Nyorai. We also saw two very tall straight trees adjacent to Shaka-do building to its east side.

Shaka-do building as viewed from the front (south)

I am standing in front of the building

Hubby standing near the entrance area of Shaka-do

Hubby standing next to a colorful poster in the building ground

Two tall trees located adjacent to the building

We wished to see a couple of more buildings in Sai-to area of Enryakuji Temple. But the buildings are located in the peripheral area of Sai-to and rather far along the paved pathway. It was the peak summer time, and earlier in the day we had done a lot of walking in To-do and Sai-to areas. So we were a bit tired of all the walking and decided to skip seeing the other buildings in Sai-to area. From Shaka-do, we walked back to the car parking lot and took rest for sometime inside the car. Next, we visited Yokawa area of the temple complex on the mountain. The car parking lot of Yokawa area is located about 4.4 kilometer north-northeast of Sai-to area car parking lot but it took us almost 25 minutes of car ride to reach Yokawa area. This is because, after about 3 minutes of driving from Sai-to area on the mountainous road, we made a brief stop to see a huge magnificent bronze statue of Dengyo Daishi Saicho located to the right side of the road. The statue, including the pedestal, is 11 meters tall and was erected in 1987. On reaching Yokawa site, we parked our car and then clicked a photo of the entrance area of Yokawa. We noted that there were very few visitors at this site.

I am standing in front of the bronze statue of Dengyo Daishi Saicho

I am standing in front of the entrance of Yokawa area of Enryakuji Temple

We entered the Yokawa area and walked along a paved pathway towards the northeast direction for about 300 meters and saw the backside of a magnificent red colored building named Yokawa Chu-do. We walked along the side of the building and reached the front side. Yokawa Chu-do is the main building in the Yokawa area of Mount Hieizan. It is formally referred to as Shuryogon-in Temple and the building faces southeastward. It is the 18th number temple of the New Saigoku (western part of Japan) 33 Kannon Pilgrimage Sites (Japanese page). Yokawa Chu-do was originally established by Jikaku Daishi Ennin in the year 848. The building was completely destroyed by Oda Nobunaga during a battle in 1571, and later it was rebuilt by his successor Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The building was again destroyed by a lightning strike and subsequent fire in 1942. The present building was built in 1971 to commemorate the 1150th anniversary of the death of Dengyo Daishi Saicho, the founder of Tendai sect Buddhism. The building has Butai-zukuri architectural style (stage-like construction style). If we look at the entire building, it looks like a boat floating on water. The central part of the building is two meters lower than the rest of the building. The principal image enshrined inside this building is a standing wooden statue of Sho-Kannon Bosatsu. This statue has miraculously survived the series of fires that had destroyed the building time and again. The statue is a wooden artifact characteristic of the late Heian period, and has been designated as an important cultural asset. We loved viewing the wonderful architecture of the building and took several photos of the building and the surrounding ground. In the building ground, we saw several colorful posters explaining the life and teachings of influential Tendai sect priests. Afterwards we entered inside the building and I prayed in front of the principal statue Sho-Kannon Bosatsu, which is enshrined in the inner central area of the hall. There is a narrow passageway surrounding this central area. This passageway is lined with thousands of small golden colored statues of Buddha that have been paid for by the Buddhist followers from around the country. The atmosphere inside the building was so peaceful and calming.

Hubby standing near the backside of Yokawa Chu-do building

Yokawa Chu-do as viewed from the front (southeast)

Hubby reading a colorful poster in the building ground

A golden statue of Sho-Kannon Bosatsu located at the entrance area of the building

The principal image Sho-Kannon Bosatsu enshrined inside the building

Hubby standing in the passageway lined with thousands of small golden statues of Buddha

Afterwards, we started walking along the paved pathway towards the southeast direction. We walked for about 50 meters and saw a mountain snake crawling across the path in front of us. While I have seen snakes many times in India, it was the first time for hubby to see a snake in a natural environment. He was shocked and jumped reflexively, which made the snake also jump and hurriedly move into the surrounding forest. We did not expect such an encounter, and it was a nerve-racking experience for both of us. We walked for another 50 meters along the pathway and saw a stone monument to our left side. The monument named Kyoshi-no-kuhi was erected in 1979 to honor Takahama Kyoshi who was a famous Haiku poet and story writer during Showa period. When he lived in Kyoto, he climbed Mount Hieizan, and wrote a book named ‘Eizan Moude’ in 1907. He stayed at Ichinen-ji Hall of Yokawa Chu-do, and based on his experiences of living there he wrote a novel named ‘Furyusenpou’ in the same year 1907. Kyoshi-no-kuhi monument has a beautiful Haiku inscribed on it ‘Seijo na tsuki o minikeri mine no tera’ meaning ‘Went to see clear moon from hilltop temple’. We loved the Haiku very much. We continued walking along the pathway for another 80 meters and reached a point where the pathway intersected with another pathway perpendicular to it. Near this point, we saw a temple belfry and a bell.

A snake 1) crawling across the path in front of us, and 2) moving into the surrounding forest

Kyoshi-no-kuhi monument

Belfry and a bell

Next, we walked along the paved pathway, perpendicular to the one we were walking earlier. We walked towards the south direction for about 150 meters and saw a building named Eshin-do. It is a beautiful wooden structure facing eastward. Eshin-do was built by Fujiwara no Kaneie for the 18th Zasu Jie Daishi Ryogen (also known as Ganzan Daishi Ryogen). Jie Daishi’s disciple Eshin Sozu Genshin used it as a place to practice and engage in Buddhist exercise named Nembutsu-zanmai which is a training method that encourages believers to pray devoutly to Amida Nyorai. Genshin used this place to devote himself to many of the famous writings and works of art that he produced there such as ‘Ojoyoshu’ (written in 985), ‘Nijuugo Zanmaishiki’, ‘Rokudo Jukkai no Zu’, and ‘Mida Raiga no Zu’. He founded Jodo-kyo (Pure Land Teaching) with his works in the end of 10th century, and this place is considered to be the birthplace of Jodo-kyo Buddhism. The principal statue enshrined inside this building is Amida Nyorai. The interior of the building is not open to the public. We loved the way sunshine falling on the trees surrounding the building gave it a mystical appearance.

Eshin-do as viewed from the front (east)

Hubby standing in front of Eshin-do

Afterwards, we turned around and walked along the paved pathway towards the north direction for about 280 meters and saw a building named Ganzan Daishi-do. It is a wooden structure and the building ground has an entrance gate that faces east-southeastward. It is a temple for Jie Daishi Ryogen (also known as Ganzan Daishi Ryogen). The building is also known as Shikiko-do which means ‘lecture hall of four seasons’. This is because, in the year 967 it is where Ryogen was ordered to provide Emperor Murakami with seasonal lectures on Hokekyo Lotus Sutra. This building was also the house of Ryogen, who maintained temple buildings on the top of Mount Hieizan while contributing to academic development. He is referred to as the patriarch of the resurrection of Mount Hieizan and also known as the founder of Omikuji fortune slips. The painting enshrined inside this building is a portrait of Ganzan Daishi Ryogen. This building hall is the center of Ganzan Daishi worship in Japan. The gate to enter the building premises is a simple wooden structure. A gorgeous green colored framed plaque with ‘Ganzan Daishi’ written in golden color, hangs from the top portion of this gate. Hubby was rather tired of all the walking in hot sun and so he sat down on a wooden bench kept near the gate and took rest. I entered inside the gate and Ganzan Daishi-do building lay straight ahead of me. I loved viewing the wooden building and the simple but meticulously maintained dry sand garden inside the premises. In addition, I saw several old wonderful artwork paintings on wooden panels hanging from the upper part of the front wall of the building. Most of them are related to Ganzan Daishi. The building and its tranquil surroundings seemed to envelop us with a sense of warmth and peace.

Ganzan Daishi-do premises as viewed from the ground located outside the premises

Gate to enter Ganzan Daishi-do premises

A green colored framed plaque with ‘Ganzan Daishi’ written on it hangs from the top portion of the gate

Hubby tired and sitting on a wooden bench kept near the gate

Ganzan Daishi-do building as viewed from the front (east-southeast)

Ganzan Daishi-do and the dry sand garden inside the premises

Entrance area of Ganzan Daishi-do

Several paintings hanging from the upper part of the front wall on the right side (with respect to us) of the entrance door

Several paintings hanging from the upper part of the front wall on the left side of the entrance door

At this point, we finished the tour of Yokawa area of Enryakuji Temple on Mount Hieizan. So we left Yokawa area and started driving downhill. From the mountainous road, we got wonderful views of Otsu City and Lake Biwa.

Otsu City and Lake Biwa (right side very hazy) as viewed from Mount Hieizan

Otsu City and Lake Biwa

We loved viewing all the three areas To-do, Sai-to, and Yokawa of Enryakuji Temple on Mount Hieizan. It was about 3 pm when we left the temple complex. It took us about three hours of car ride to reach hubby’s ancestral home in Ichinomiya City. We stayed for a couple of days in Ichinomiya for Obon festival (check this post for details) and returned back to our home in Yurihonjo City on 17th August. Hubby did a lot of driving during the Obon holiday sightseeing trip.

Family alter at our Ichinomiya home

Details of the family alter

Father-in-law praying to welcome the souls of ancestors

Hubby offering flowers at his mother’s grave