Yamadera Temple - part 2

As I wrote in the previous post, hubby and I visited Yamadera Risshakuji Temple on 25th October 2014. The temple is located on Mount Hoshuyama in Yamagata City of Yamagata prefecture. In the previous post I wrote that we had climbed about 215 stone steps along a paved pathway in the temple complex and reached Sanmon Gate located near the base of the mountain. We walked past Sanmon Gate and started our ascent along a trail that leads up the mountainside to the upper area of the temple grounds. This trail has about 800 stone steps and the ascent usually takes about 40-60 minutes. There are several small temple buildings, stone statues, and Buddhist structures scattered all over the mountain on the way to the top. After seeing Datsueba Hall (previous post) we climbed further up the trail.

The ascent along the trail was very interesting. The stone steps make a winding path along the trail. This trail approach is located along the mountain surrounded by nature. Since olden times, this trail is called ‘Shugyoja no Sando’ or the ‘road of practitioners’. We noted that the width of the trail varied a lot. At the narrowest place the trail is called Yonsunmichi Pass where the width of the trail is only about 14 centimeters. While walking along the trail, it felt like we were stepping in the footsteps of the founder of the temple Jikaku Daishi. Our ancestors have walked along the trail and our descendants will walk along the same trail, and so the trail is also known as ‘Oyako Michi’ or ‘filioparental road’ as well as ‘Shison Do’ or ‘descendant road’. Near Yonsunmichi Pass, we saw a board notifying us that we had climbed about 375 stone steps along the trail from the entrance area of the temple complex (and therefore 160 steps from Sanmon Gate). The trail is surrounded by a thick forest of cedar trees with greenery all around. We saw many stone lanterns, stone pagodas, moss covered small statues, wooden prayer wheels, and rocks carved with Buddhist prayers on either side of the trail. Towering in the upper left of the trail, we saw a sheer rocky cliff called Hyakujo Iwa on which three famous buildings named Kaizan Do, Nokyo Do, and Godai Do stand about which I will write in the next post.

Rocks carved with Buddhist prayers, a stone lantern, and small statues located next to Shugyoja no Sando trail

In the upper area of the same point, we can see the sheer rocky cliff Hyakujo Iwa

We climbed further along the trail, and saw a stone mound named Semizuka located to our left side near the trail. Semizuka means mound of cicadas and was built as a tribute to the famous Haiku poet Matsuo Basho. In the summer of 1689, Basho visited Yamadera Risshakuji Temple. He has described in his travel writing that he stayed at a guest house called Shukubo of the temple located at the base of the mountain. On July 13th of that year, he went to see Konpon Chudo Main Hall (previous post) of the temple but the doors of the hall were closed. So he climbed up the mountain along the trail to see other temple buildings and the surrounding views. It is said that he took rest at this place now called Semizuka and wrote a beautiful Haiku poem about the stillness and silence of the area. I have written the poem in the previous post. It is one of the most famous poems in Oku no Hosomichi. Later in 1751, his pupil visited the place and buried a Tanzaku paper strip with the phrase ‘Semi no Koe’ or ‘the cries of cicadas’ written on it by Basho. Then a mound of stone and a monument were built over that buried strip of paper. Three Kanji characters Ba, Sho, and Ou are inscribed on the stone monument. Near Semizuka, it was so quite and serene, and I felt so calm surrounded by huge ancient cedar trees of the forest. From this place, we could see the rocky cliff Hyakujo Iwa, described in the previous paragraph, more clearly. Near this place, we saw a board notifying us that we had climbed 220 stone steps along the trail from Sanmon Gate. I also saw a small stone statue nearby which intrigued me very much because it looked remarkably similar to a Hindu Goddess named Durga.

Semizuka

Semizuka stone mound and stone monument along with a stone stele in the front to mark the site

Rocky cliff Hyakujo Iwa looming in front of us

A small stone statue along the trail

The statue looks similar to Hindu Goddess Durga

After climbing 350 stone steps from Sanmon Gate along the trail, we saw an interesting looking huge rock called Mida Hora to our right side. It is some sort of volcanic rock and very light and porous at some places. This huge rock on the mountainside is weathered and sculpted by wind and rain for a very long time, which has resulted in creating a fantastic figure form that is shaped like Amida Nyorai. The figure is about 4.8 meters tall and is also known by the name Joroku Amida. It is said that people who can see the figure of Amida Nyorai will achieve happiness. We tried very hard but unfortunately could not make out the figure form. Many stone tablets called Iwa Toba are carved in the bosom of Amida Nyorai on the face of the rock cliff. Many Buddhist inscriptions are carved in hollow relief pattern called Inkoku on these stone tablets. We also saw many Ranto stone pagodas on the ground in front of Mida Hora Rock. In addition, there are many wooden Goshoguruma Kibashira placed near Mida Hora. These are wooden poles with a rotating wheel at the top and are used for memorial services of people who died young. We also saw many 1 yen coins on this huge rock. In fact one portion of the rock is full of such little shiny circular coins. The rock is soft and porous, so it is easy to work the coin into the surface far enough that it does not fall off. I also added one 1 Yen coin on to the rock.

Upper portion of Mida Hora Rock

Middle portion of the rock with many carved stone tablets on the face of the rock

Lower portion of the rock along with many wooden Goshoguruma Kibashira placed on the ground

Enlarged view of wooden Goshoguruma Kibashira

Lower portion of the rock along with many Ranto stone pagodas (right side of the photo) placed on the ground

I am adding one 1 Yen coin on to the porous rock

After climbing about 400 stone steps from Sanmon Gate along the trail, we reached a gate named Niomon. Niomon Gate is located exactly at the midpoint of Sando trail up the mountain from Sanmon Gate. Earlier there used to be a building named Juo Do at this location which was dedicated to Juo, the 10 judges (kings) of hell in Buddhism. In 1848, it was reconstructed as Niomon Gate by the 65th head priest named Joden of Risshakuji Temple. So it is a relatively new building in the temple complex. It is a single-storied wooden gate with gabled and hipped copper roof having Irimoya Zukuri architectural style. It is an eight legged gate and stands three bays wide with the middle bay serving as an entrance. The wooden portion of this graceful gate is fully constructed from Zelkova wood, and the ceiling and pillars have intricate ornate decorations. This gate has a pair of large guardian statues called Nio, one on either side of the entrance. These fierce looking Nio statues, one open-mouthed called Agyo and the other close-mouthed called Ungyo, are supposed to protect the temple from evil spirits. These Nio statues are reputed to be made by Hirai Genshichiro, the 13th descendant of Unkei, and were made to prevent people with wicked souls from entering the temple. Inside the gate building, 10 statues of Juo Kings are enshrined. We appreciated the architecture of the gate and then walked past the gate.

I am climbing up the stone steps leading to Niomon Gate

Niomon Gate

Statue of open mouthed Agyo Nio located to the right side (orientation with respect to us) of the gate

Statue of closed mouthed Ungyo Nio located to the left side of the gate

The gate as viewed from the backside

Past the Niomon Gate, the main ground of the upper area of the temple complex begins. The upper area is open and affords wonderful views out into the valley. Here the number of cedar trees is significantly less and the landscape is wide, which is in contrast to the lack of views along the initial ascent through the dense cedar forest. After passing through the gate, to our left side, we saw the two famous hall buildings Kaizan Do and Nokyo Do located precariously on the edge of the cliff. I will write about these two buildings in the next post. In addition, past the Niomon Gate, there are many sub-temples located at various points along the mountainside. These sub-temples are together called Sannai Shin. During Edo period there used to be 12 sub-temples where many monks used to train but now only four remain, namely Shozoin, Konjoin, Chushoin, and Kezoin. While climbing up the steps along the trail, we saw three of these sub-temples located just next to the steps to our right side. We clicked a photo of a few of these sub-temple buildings from a trail located in front of Kaizan Do Hall. We also saw several very small wooden hall buildings and many huge strangely shaped rocks, weathered and sculpted by natural forces, scattered all around us on the mountain.

I am standing on the steps just past the Niomon Gate. Kaizan Do Hall (1) and Nokyo Do Hall (2) are seen in the background

A huge strangely shaped rock located to our left side along the trail

Shozoin (1), Konjoin (2), and side view of Chushoin (3) sub-temple buildings located along the trail on the upper area of the temple complex

After passing through Niomon Gate and climbing up the steps along the trail, first we saw Shozoin sub-temple to our right side located just next to the steps. Near this place, we saw a board notifying us that we had climbed 540 stone steps from Sanmon Gate. In the olden times there used to be twelve Junishiin temples located in the upper area of the mountain, and Shozoin sub-temple is one of them. In 1868, two temples called Gokurakuin and Zengyoin (Sawanoin) of the mountain were merged to form the present sub-temple. It is a two-storied wooden building with hipped copper roof having Yosemune Zukuri architectural style. The entrance area lower roof has Mukuri and upper roof has Chidorihafu architectural style. The exterior wall of the building has Shinkabe Zukuri style with white stucco finish. A principal statue of Amida Nyorai carved by Jikaku Daishi and a statue of Bishamonten carved by Unkei are enshrined inside Shozoin. We could not see these images but saw a standing statue named Dai Fukutoku Chie Kannon of great fortune and wisdom.

Shozoin sub-temple as viewed from a trail located in front of Kaizan Do Hall

The front of Shozoin sub-temple

Standing statue of Dai Fukutoku Chie Kannon

Facial expressions of Dai Fukutoku Chie Kannon

While climbing further up the steps along the trail, to our right side we saw a small hall named Tainai Do located near a huge strangely shaped rock on the mountain cliff far away from the trail. It is a one-storied wooden building with iron roof having Kirizuma Zukuri architectural style. The building has gabled Tsumairi style with Ketayuki-niken (2 Ken or 3.64 meters long beam) Harima-niken (2 Ken or 3.64 meters long crossbeam) structure. This hall can be assessed by climbing a very dangerous rocky trail up the mountain but visitors are prohibited from climbing up that trail.

Tainai Do Hall and a huge strangely shaped rock

The hall as viewed from a trail located in front of Kaizan Do Hall

We continued climbing up the steps along the trail and next saw the sub-temple named Konjoin to our right side located just adjacent to the steps. Konjoin is one of the olden times Junishiin temples. This sub-temple was rebuilt by a person named Choumei Suhai in 1840. It is a one-storied wooden building having two half-hipped roofs with Irimoya Zukuri architectural style. The entrance area roof has Mukuri architectural style. The exterior wall of the building has Shinkabe Zukuri style with white stucco finish. The principal image enshrined inside the building is a statue of Enmei Jizobosatsu. Statues of Sentai Jizo and Fudomyo are also enshrined. In addition, Nippai mortuary tablet of Fujiwara no Hidehira is also enshrined inside.

Konjoin sub-temple as viewed from a trail located in front of Kaizan Do Hall

I am climbing up the steps along the trail leading to Konjoin sub-temple

Konjoin sub-temple

The front of the sub-temple

While climbing further up the steps along the trail we saw a small building named ‘Taisho Tenno Toguji Yamadera Gyokei Anzaisho’ to our left side located just adjacent to the steps. This building was the temporary lodging of Emperor Taisho, then the crown prince, who rested here during his pilgrimage visit to Yamadera Risshakuji Temple on September 18th 1908. It is a one-storied wooden building with iron roof having Irimoya Zukuri architectural style. The building has Ketayuki-santengoken (3.5 Ken or 6.36 meters long beam) Harima-sanken (3 Ken or 5.46 meters long crossbeam) structure. A pine tree that was planted by the emperor and a monument that was erected afterwards have been preserved as such. We loved the architecture of the building. Standing at this point along the trail, we got wonderful landscape views out into the valley below. We also saw the roofs of several temple buildings located in the upper area of the mountain temple complex that we had passed by earlier.

Taisho Tenno Toguji Yamadera Gyokei Anzaisho

Roofs of several temple buildings located in the upper area of the temple complex

Roofs of several more temple buildings

Amazing view out into the valley as viewed from the upper area of the mountain

We climbed still further up the steps along the trail and saw the third sub-temple named Chushoin to our right side located just adjacent to the steps. Chushoin is one of the olden times Junishiin temples. In 1868, this sub-temple temple was formed by merging three mountain temples named Fudoin, Nakanoin, and Kanmyoin. It is a one-storied wooden building with copper roof having hipped Yosemune and Hirairi architectural styles. The entrance (front facade) roof is gabled and is a combination of Chidorihafu (upper) and Nokikarahafu (lower) architectural styles. The principal image enshrined inside the building is a statue of Amida Nyorai. In front of the sub-temple, we saw a seated metallic statue of Nadebotoke Obinzuru Sama who is reputed to have the gift of healing. The statue is well worn because of the custom of rubbing a part of the statue corresponding to the sick parts of our bodies.

Hubby standing in front of Chushoin sub-temple

Entrance front facade of the sub-temple

I am touching the statue of Nadebotoke Obinzuru Sama

Right in front of Chushoin sub-temple we saw a rather old looking mausoleum of feudal lord Mogami Yoshiaki. Mogami Yoshiaki was the 11th generation feudal lord of Mogami clan of Dewa province. He loved the land and people of the province immensely, and brought peace and stability to the province during the warring Sengoku period. He laid the foundation of the modern-day Yamagata city. Ihai memorial tablets of 10 vassals of Yoshiaki are also enshrined inside the mausoleum. Although the exact year of the construction of the mausoleum is unknown, it is assumed to be built between the years 1620 to 1651. It is a small wooden building with metallic roof having Hogyo Zukuri architectural style. The building has Ketayuki-niken (2 Ken or 3.64 meters long beam) Harima-niken (2 Ken or 3.64 meters long crossbeam) structure. Next to the building, we saw a stone monument marking the site.

Mausoleum of feudal lord Mogami Yoshiaki

A stone monument located next to the building marks the site

We were rather tired but steadily continued to climb up the steps along the trail, and reached in front of two halls named Okunoin and Daibutsuden located at the top of the mountain. I will write about these two halls in the next post. At the mountaintop, we saw a board notifying us that we had climbed 800 stone steps along the trail from Sanmon Gate and a total of 1015 steps from the entrance area of the temple complex. It had taken us about 75 minutes to reach the top. There are several other buildings and structures located around this area. We saw one such building named Issai Kyozo located to our left side towards the west of the trail. Issai Kyozo is a Sutra repository hall that has complete collection of Buddhist scriptures and Sutras housed inside. It was interesting to note that the symbol of Manji inscribed on the upper part of the front wall of this building is the mirror image of the Hindu symbol Swastika.

Front area of Okunoin Hall (right) and Daibutsuden Hall (left)

Issai Kyozo Hall

The front of Issai Kyozo Hall has a) intricately carved wooden patterns and b) the symbol of Manji

In the next post I will write about the remaining temple buildings and structures that we saw on the top of the mountain.

Kiyomizudera Temple

As I wrote in the previous post, on the afternoon of 30th April hubby and I visited Ginkakuji Temple in Kyoto. In the evening, we visited Kiyomizudera Temple about which I will write in this post. Kiyomizudera Temple is formally known as Otowa San Kiyomizudera and is located halfway up Otowa Mountain in the eastern part of Kyoto city. The temple originally belonged to Hosso sect of Buddhism but formed its own Kita-Hosso sect in 1965. The temple was founded in 778 during Nara period by a Buddhist priest named Enchin in honor of Kannon Bosatsu. There is a legend that says that Enchin had a vision of finding a golden stream of clear water flowing from Otowa Mountain into Yodogawa River. During the search for the stream, he came across an old hermit named Gyoei who practiced asceticism. Gyoei gave Enchin a piece of wood and went for pilgrimage. Enchin waited for a long period of time but the hermit seemed to have disappeared and did not return. So Enchin went in search of the hermit and found the hermit’s sandals on top of the mountain. Suddenly it dawned on Enchin that he had met and talked with Kannon himself. Enchin then carved the piece of wood into an image of Kannon Bosatsu which was enshrined in a small thatched roofed hut. The legend further states that Sakanoue Tamuramaro, one of the generals of Emperor Kammu, met Enchin while hunting for stag. Tamuramaro’s wife was going to give birth and the blood of a stag was thought to ease the pain of childbirth. Enchin spoke of the cruelty of killing animals and preached compassion for them. The speech moved Tamuramaro so much that he disassembled his house and gave it to the temple as an act of repentance. In 794 during the first year of Heian period, Emperor Kammu moved his capital to Kyoto and gave Tamuramaro his throne hall as a reward for his military service. Tamuramaro, in turn, donated this building to Enchin for a new main hall of the temple. Since its foundation, the temple has burned down many times. In the late 16th century Toyotomi Hideyoshi spent time at the temple and left behind many personal objects, some of which still remain today. The temple grew in the early 17th century but a fire in 1629 destroyed almost all the original buildings. Most of the present buildings were rebuilt by Tokugawa Iemitsu, the third shogun of Tokugawa Shogunate, in 1633 during Edo period. Present day temple complex has an area of about 130000 square meters and consists of over 30 structures. In 1994, the temple was registered on the UNESCO world cultural heritage list as one of the historic monuments of ancient Kyoto.

Kiyomizudera Temple is located about six kilometers south of Ginkakuji Temple and it took us 25 minutes to reach there by Taxi. After getting down from the taxi, we walked up the steep and narrow stone paved lanes lined with souvenir shops and food stalls. After 15 minutes of walking, we reached the front of Kiyomizudera Temple complex. It was about 3.45 pm when we reached the temple. At the front of the temple complex, we saw a magnificent red colored gate named Niomon. This gate was destroyed during Onin war but was rebuilt soon by the end of 15th century. The gate was dismantled and repaired in 2003, and therefore now it is beautifully covered in bright red color. The gate is 14 meters high, 10 meters wide, and 5 meters deep, and shows the typical features of Muromachi period. A pair of Nio deities and a pair of lion-dogs komainu stand guard on either side of the gate, and are believed to protect the temple from any evil.

Niomon gate along with Saimon gate and three-storied pagoda

Niomon gate and a statue of komainu

Walking past Niomon gate, we reached another gate named Saimon west gate. It is located slightly southeast of Niomon gate. Although the exact year of the construction of the original Saimon gate is unknown, it is believed to have been built at the end of Heian period or the beginning of Kamakura period. The present gate was reconstructed in 1631 during Edo period. In 1994, the roof was restored and the entire gate was colored in red. Two Nio statues stand guard on either side of the gate. There is a three-storied pagoda behind the gate and a bell tower to the left of the gate.

Saimon west gate and three-storied pagoda behind it

Saimon west gate and Shoro bell tower to its north

Near Saimon gate we turned around and got a beautiful view of Kyoto city. After enjoying the views of the city, we again concentrated back on the temple structures. To our left we saw Shoro bell tower that was built in 1607 during Edo period. The bell tower was restored in 1999 that revived its spectacular red color. Beautiful chrysanthemum flowers are carved above the flying brace of the tower. The bell that was cast in 1478 during Muromachi period used to be inside the bell tower until 2008, when it was retired due to progressive fatigue and now is kept in a treasure house inside the temple complex. The present bell is just 3 years old.

View of Kyoto city

Shoro bell tower

Carved chrysanthemum flowers on the bell tower

Next we saw a building named Zuigudo hall that is located towards east right in front of the bell tower. Daizuigu Bosatsu, mother of Buddha, is the principal image of worship in this hall. The hall was rebuilt in 1718 during Edo period, and was dismantled and repaired in 2006. We paid 100 yen per person as admission fee for entering the hall. We could not see anything inside the hall because it is pitch dark inside. The darkness symbolizes the womb of a mother. We walked down to the basement of the hall through the darkness grasping a rope tied to the side of the wall, and made a wish while circling a big stone inside. It is said that the goddess can grant our any wish. After making a wish, we started walking back up in the darkness. When the daylight hit us, it was supposed to be like a new beginning.

Front (left) and back (right) side of entrance ticket for Zuigudo hall

Zuigudo hall

A three-storied pagoda called Sanjunoto is an adjacent building located southwest of Zuigudo Hall. In fact, earlier while entering the temple premises we got a nice view of the pagoda just behind Saimon west gate. The pagoda was built in 847 during Heian period. It was rebuilt in 1632 during Edo period. In 1987, the building was dismantled, repaired, and repainted in the original red color. The building is 31 meters high and is the tallest three-storied pagoda in Japan. It is a gorgeous structure with rich architectural beauty. There is an image of Dainichi Nyorai inside the pagoda building. We took several photos of the pagoda from various sides and angles.

Photos of three-storied pagoda from various sides and angles

After seeing the pagoda, we reached a ticket counter where we purchased tickets worth 300 Yen per person as admission fee to the paid area of the temple precincts. The tickets looked so elegant. We then passed through Todorokimon middle gate of the temple. This gate was rebuilt in 1633 during Edo period. The roof structure of this gate resembles Tengaimon gate of Todaiji Temple located in Nara. A pair of Nio statues stands guard on either side of the gate. This gate leads to the approach to the main hall of the temple.

Front (left) and back (right) side of entrance ticket to the paid area of the temple precincts

Todorokimon middle gate

Next, we walked through a roofed passage that led to the main hall. There are huge wooden columns on either side of the passage. A row of lanterns hanging from the roof of this passage look so elegant and graceful. As we neared the end of the passage, we went to the porch area and enjoyed the greenery in front of us. From this angle, we got a lovely view of the roof of Hondo main hall.

Roofed passage leading to the main hall

Row of lanterns hanging from the roofed passage

Two types of lantern designs

I am standing at a porch area

Hondo main hall is the main attraction of the temple and is designated as a national treasure. The hall is dedicated to Kannon Bosatsu. The original building donated by Tamuramaro was destroyed by a fire in 1629 during Edo period. The present structure was rebuilt in 1633 in the original Heian period palace style architecture.

Roof of Hondo main hall as viewed from the end of roofed passage

A pair of metal staff (priest’s cane) is displayed at the west side entrance of Hondo building. Heavier one named Tetsushakujo weighs 90 kilograms and the smaller Shoshakujo weighs 14 kilograms. Visitors were encouraged to try and lift the staffs. Although hubby could not lift the heavier staff, he could easily lift the lighter one.

Hubby trying to lift the metal staff weighing 90 kilograms

Hubby lifting the metal staff weighing 14 kilograms

While walking in the corridor of Hondo main hall, we saw a cute statue of a deity named Shusse Daikokuten. The statue is kept outside towards the west side of the main hall. It is a deity of success and progress in career. The deity has a smiling face, stands on rice bags, and wears a red hood. In addition, the deity has a treasure bag on its left shoulder and holds a magic mallet in the right hand. The statue was repaired in 2008.

Statue of Shusse Daikokuten

We loved the wooden architecture of Hondo main hall. We were appreciating the magnificent style of the roof of the hall building when we noted that the corridor ceiling has a unique lattice structure.

Lattice structured ceiling of the corridor of main hall

Next we entered inside the hall building where the first thing we noticed was a row of huge floor-to-ceiling wooden columns. While the outer sanctuary of the hall is rather simple, the inner sanctuary is gorgeous and has many gold-leaf images. Priest Enchin's image of Kannon Bosatsu is kept inside a case resting on a platform. In the east of the hall is an image of Bishamonten and the west houses an image of Jizo Bosatsu. Since photography is not allowed inside the main hall, I do not have any photos of the hall interior.

Then we came outside the main hall and saw a stage named Butai which is the veranda of the main hall. The stage is held up by wooden scaffolds that extends the stage 10 meters over a 12 meter cliff. The stage was built using a special method where huge 12 meter high keyaki tree pillars were assembled without using a single nail. A total of 139 pillars and 90 crossbeams support the stage. The floor of the stage was installed using more than 410 hinoki cypress boards. The stage has an area of 190 square meters, and was originally used for kabuki, kyogen, and sumo wrestling. There is an expression in Japanese ‘to jump off the stage at Kiyomizudera’ which is equivalent to the English expression ‘to take the plunge’. This refers to Edo period tradition that one’s wish would be granted if one were to survive jumping from the stage. Of course, this practice is prohibited now. From Butai stage, we got impressive and wonderful views of the temple surroundings and the city. To the southeast of the main hall, we saw a beautiful building named Okunoin hall. This hall resembles the main hall on a smaller scale and also has a stage. At the base of the main hall we saw a waterfall named Otowa no taki. From the stage we took several photos of the temple surroundings.

Okunoin hall and Otowa no taki waterfall as viewed from Butai stage of main hall

Okunoin hall as viewed from Butai stage

Otowa no taki waterfall as viewed from the stage

Enlarged view of the waterfall

I am standing on Butai stage of main hall

Hubby standing on the stage of main hall

Next, we walked further east and climbed a few wooden steps of the main hall building. From this spot, we got a perfect view of Butai stage and the front of the main hall. The architectural design of the stage is superb. There were many tourists enjoying the temple views from this famous stage and therefore we had some difficulty to take photos of the stage. After enjoying the views for some more time, we left the main hall building.

A portion of the wooden scaffolds of Butai stage

Many visitors on Butai stage

Butai stage of main hall

Butai stage and the front of main hall

Next, we saw a shrine named Jishu Jinja located in the north just behind the main hall. In Japan it is common to find Shinto shrines in Buddhist temple precincts. Jishu Jinja is dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. A Torii gate and a large staircase lead to the shrine grounds. We climbed the staircase but decided to skip visiting the shrine as we did not have much time.

I am standing in front of Torii gate and stairs of Jishu Jinja

After coming down the stairs of Jishu Jinja, we turned left and walked towards the east on a pathway that brought us to a line of buildings. The first building is a hall named Shakado. The hall building was rebuilt in 1631 during Edo period. The building was damaged in heavy rain in 1972, and so it was reconstructed after three years. Although the exterior of the hall looks simple, the interior has a gorgeous decor. The inside is lacquered and the ceiling is painted. The principle image of the hall is Shaka Sanzon which is a triad consisting of an image of Shaka Nyorai in the center flanked by images of Monju Bosatsu and Fugen Bosatsu.

Shakado hall

To the southeast of Shakado hall, there is a small hall named Hyakutaijizodo. There are about 200 stone statues of Jizo Bosatsu inside the hall. Jizo deity is the protector of dead children and travelers.

Hyakutaijizodo hall

Adjacent to Shakado hall to the south we saw another hall named Amidado. The hall was reconstructed in 1633 during Edo period. The painting of the building was restored in 1996 and therefore has a striking colorful red appearance. The hall has the traditional tiled roof structure of Buddhist temples. The principal image of the hall is a seated statue Amida Nyorai. The statue is brilliantly gilded and has a halo-shaped decor. To the south of this statue an image of Priest Honen, the founder of Jodo sect of Buddhism, is also enshrined.

Statues of Amida Nyorai (center) and Priest Honen (right) inside Amidado hall

Amida Nyorai

Adjacent to Amidado hall to the south is yet another hall named Okunoin. Earlier while walking towards Shakado hall, we glanced towards our right and got a beautiful view of Okunoin hall from its side. The hall resembles Hondo main hall on a smaller scale and also has a stage. The present building was reconstructed in 1633 during Edo period. This site is said to be the original home of hermit Gyoei and the original crude structure that held the images of Kannon Bosatsu, Bishamonten, and Jizo Bosatsu carved by priest Enchin. Later the sanctuary of Tamuramaro also stood at this site while it held the three images. The hall is dedicated to these images even though they are now housed in Hondo main hall. While walking on the corridor of Okunoin hall, we could see the wooden scaffolds of its stage. On reaching the stage, we walked around for some time and enjoyed the beautiful views of the temple surroundings. Hondo main hall is located to the northwest of this hall. From Okunoin stage, we got a magnificent view of Hondo main hall and its Butai stage. Butai stage was full of visitors. We took several photos of Hondo main hall from Okunoin stage.

View of Okunoin hall from its side

A portion of the wooden scaffolds of Okunoin stage

Hondo main hall and its Butai stage as viewed from Okunoin stage

I am standing on Okunoin stage. Hondo main hall is seen in the background.

Hubby and Hondo main hall

Butai stage of Hondo main hall

Wooden scaffolds of Butai stage

After enjoying the temple views from the stage of Okunoin hall, we continued our walk on the paved route. Soon we reached a spot on the southern part of the temple complex from where we got a nice front view of Hondo main hall and its Butai stage. Again, we took several photos of the main hall.

Three-storied pagoda, roofed passage, Hondo main hall, and a few more structures as viewed from a spot on the southern part of the temple complex

Hondo main hall, Butai stage, and wooden scaffolds of the stage

Butai stage and wooden scaffolds of the stage

Then we started coming down the walking path and reached Otowa no taki waterfall located at the base of the main hall. Water from a spring in the mountain has been falling there since the foundation of the temple. The temple’s name ‘Kiyomizu’, which means pure water, is derived from this waterfall. Three streams of very pure water fall into a pond. Each narrow stream is said to have a different effect. Visitors can collect the water from the falls in metal cups that are attached to long poles, and drink it for love, longevity, and wisdom. Traditionally, we should only choose two because it is considered being greedy to drink from all the streams. There was a very long queue of visitors waiting near the waterfall, so we skipped drinking the pure water from the streams.

I am walking down the paved path

Otowa no taki waterfall

Three streams of very pure water at the waterfall

Next, we saw several souvenir shops and food stalls adjacent to the waterfall. At this point our tour of the temple complex was over. As we started heading back to the entrance of the temple, we saw the base of the massive wooden scaffolding that supports Hondo main hall.

Food stalls and souvenir shops

A food stall

Wooden scaffolding supporting the main hall

At about 5.30 pm we left Kiyomizudera Temple complex. We enjoyed visiting the temple. The next morning we visited Higashi Hongwanji Temple about which I will write in the next post.