Yamadera Temple - part 3

As described in the previous two posts (here and here), on October 25th 2014 hubby and I visited Yamadera Risshakuji Temple located on Mount Hoshuyama in Yamagata City of Yamagata prefecture. In the previous post I wrote that we climbed 1015 stone steps along Sando trail from the entrance area of the temple complex and reached the top of the mountain. It is said that the earthly desires blocking us from enlightenment begin to fade away with each step we take up the stone stairs on the trail up the mountainside. We were rather tired after 75 minutes of climbing up the steps but felt a sense of accomplishment. The mountaintop looked so serene and wonderful. At the end of Sando trail, located at the highest level of Yamadera Temple complex, we saw two hall buildings facing south side. The building to the right side (orientation with respect to us) is called Okunoin Hall and the one to the left side is called Daibutsuden Hall. The mountaintop area, consisting of these two buildings and their surroundings, is called Okunoin precinct.

Okunoin Hall (right) and Daibutsuden Hall (left) located at the top of the mountain

As described in the previous paragraph, we saw a building named Okunoin Hall located to our right side in the northern area of Okunoin precinct at the mountaintop. The formal name of the hall building is Nyoho Do. The original building was razed by a fire in 1871, following which it was reconstructed in 1872 by the 66th head priest named Yuden of Risshakuji Temple. Okunoin is a wooden building with copper Itabuki roof having Hogyo Zukuri architectural style. It has Ketayuki-sanken (3 Ken or 5.46 meters long beam), Harima-sanken (3 Ken or 5.46 meters long crossbeam), and Shomen-ichiken (1 Ken or 1.82 meters space between two pillars in the front) structure. The front of the temple building has Kohai roof (eaves) built over the steps leading up to the building. Kohai wooden nosings called Kibana are decorated with sculptures of Baku elephants and Shishi lions, while the transom part is decorated with dragons. The principal images enshrined inside the hall are Shaka Nyorai and a seated statue of Taho Nyorai. Both these statues are very small and it is said that Jikaku Daishi, the founder of Risshakuji Temple, always carried around these two statues with him during his training in China. Okunoin Hall is also called Shakyo Dojo Hall and is used as a place for the observance of Buddha's teachings as well as for practicing and copying Buddhist Sutras. Sutras are copied according to the prescribed method called Nyoho introduced by Jikaku Daishi. In this method, Sutras are copied on hemp paper with Souhitsu brush made of grass and twigs and by using Sekiboku ink made from graphite. Many such Sekiboku-Souhitsu hand-copied Sutras are preserved inside the hall. We climbed up a few stone steps and about half way up the front entrance of Okunoin Hall, we saw a large cauldron for burning incense sticks located inside a four pillared pavilion. Many Omikuji paper strips are tied to the upper beams of the pavilion. Standing on the steps, I noted that intricate patterns are carved on the ceiling of the Kohai roof and wonderful sculptures adorn the Kibana nosings. Next we climbed up a few wooden steps and reached the front verandah of the hall. I offered some coins into the offertory box and prayed for the well being of my family as well as friends. We saw an old bell of Shoro belfry (described later in this post) stored in the verandah of the hall.

Okunoin Hall and a portion of a lantern (foreground) as viewed from the front area of the precinct

I am standing next to a pavilion with a large cauldron for burning incense sticks. Omikuji paper strips are seen in the upper beams of the pavilion.

Front area of Okunoin Hall where Kohai roof built over the wooden steps can be seen

Kibana nosings decorated with Baku elephants (side) and Shishi lions (front), and transom decorated with dragons

Enlarged view of Baku elephants, Shishi lions, and dragons

I am climbing up the wooden steps leading to the front verandah of the hall

Inside Okunoin Hall

An old bell stored in the verandah of the hall

Next we saw a hall building named Daibutsuden located to our left side in the northern area of Okunoin precinct. In fact, Daibutsuden Hall is located just adjacent to Okunoin Hall. Daibutsuden is a wooden building with copper Itabuki roof having Irimoya Zukuri architectural style. It has Ketayuki-sanken (3 Ken or 5.46 meters long beam) and Shomen-ichiken (1 Ken or 1.82 meters space between two pillars in the front) structure. The front of the building has Kohai roof (eaves) built over the steps leading up to the building. A 5-meter high seated golden statue of Amida Nyorai is enshrined inside the hall. Memorial services for the deceased are held at this hall every day. All people, regardless of their sect, come here to hold such memorial services for their deceased loved ones by offering tall narrow wooden tablet called Sotoba with the name of the deceased and some Sutras written on it. On reaching the front of the hall, I noted that intricate patterns are carved on the front as well as the ceiling of the building. Near the entrance area of the hall we saw a cauldron of burning incense, smoke from which is believed to bestow good health. I lit a bunch of incense sticks to the already fuming stock and with my hands wafted the incense fumes over hubby’s body as well as mine. I offered some money into the offertory box placed near the entrance, and prayed for our health and happiness.

Daibutsuden Hall as viewed from the front area of Okunoin precinct

Hubby standing in front of Daibutsuden Hall

The front of the hall as viewed from another angle

The front of the hall along with the statue of Amida Nyorai partly visible

5-meter high statue of Amida Nyorai inside the hall

I am lighting a bunch of incense sticks

Placing the lit incense sticks into the cauldron

Okunoin precinct has several other structures and buildings like Issai Kyozo Hall, metallic lantern Kanatoro, Shoro belfry, a place called Tashoba, and many other structures. I have written about Issai Kyozo Hall in the previous post. Kanataro lantern is located right in the front area of Okunoin precinct. Kanataro is huge, made of bronze, and has rich intricate designs. The lantern was manufactured in 1895 in Domachi Town of Yamagata prefecture and was cast by a master craftsman named Onoda Saisuke at the request of the 66th head priest Yuden of Risshakuji Temple. It was repaired by the 69th head priest named Joden in 1961. Kanatoro lantern is considered to be one of the three most precious lanterns of Japan, along with the lanterns of Kotohiragu Shrine in Kagawa prefecture and Kinkazan Koganeyama Jinja Shrine in Miyagi prefecture. Towards the east-southeast corner of Okunoin precinct, we saw a place named Tashoba where many stone tablets as well as wooden tablets that were used for the memorial services of the deceased are stored. We also saw Shoro belfry located in the eastern area of Okunoin precinct. Shoro belfry was built in 1863 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the death of Jikaku Daishi. It was built with the donations of a wealthy farmer named Abe Magoichi of Funamachi Town in Yamagata prefecture. We loved viewing the buildings and structures located in Okunoin precinct.

Hubby standing in front of Kanatoro lantern

Enlarged view of Kanatoro lantern

Tashoba

Shoro belfry

As discussed earlier, Okunoin precinct is located at the highest point of the mountain temple complex. After seeing all the buildings and structures at Okunoin precinct, we turned around and started walking down the stone steps of the Sando main trail. We leisurely walked down up to Chushoin sub-temple (see previous post). In front of this sub-temple we saw another trail leading towards the west side of the temple complex. We climbed up the stone steps of this west trail, and after about three minutes of climbing, we reached in front of a sub-temple named Kezoin. As I wrote in the previous post, during Edo period there used to be twelve Junishiin temples located at various points in the upper area of the mountain where many monks used to train. But now only four of these temples remain and are together called Sannai Shin sub-temples. Kezoin is one of the four sub-temples and is one of the olden times Junishiin temples. Kezoin sub-temple was the dwelling place of Jikaku Daishi during the founding of Yamadera Risshakuji Temple. It is a one-storied wooden building with a front facade having Chidorihafu architectural style. The roof of the entrance area has Mukuri architectural style. The principal image enshrined inside the building is a statue of Kanzeon Bosatsu which was carved by Jikaku Daishi.

The front of Kezoin sub-temple

Inside the sub-temple

In the Kezoin sub-temple precinct, we saw a small cavern hall located to the right side (orientation with respect to us) of the sub-temple. A small wooden three-storied pagoda named Sanjushoto is located inside the cavern hall. The pagoda was constructed in 1519 by Jikkoku Jouin at the request of the then chief priest named Joun of Kezoin sub-temple. The roofs of the pagoda have shingled Kokerabuki style and are constructed in Hogyo Yane architectural style. The outer wooden wall is colored in Bengara red, and the wooden butt ends and the metal fittings are golden colored. The height of the pagoda, including the finial, is 2.48 meters, and the distance between the columns is 0.45 meters. The pagoda is very small, built to perfection, and fits entirely inside the small cavern hall. In fact, this three-storied pagoda is the smallest of all the pagodas built by similar manufacturing process in entire Japan. It was designated as an important cultural property in 1952. The principal image enshrined inside the pagoda is a statue of Dainichi Nyorai. Formerly the principal image was Shaka Nyorai. We loved viewing this small pagoda located inside the cavern hall. But it is protected by a glass paneled front door, and so it was difficult to click a proper photo of the pagoda.

The cavern hall inside which the three-storied Sanjushoto pagoda is located

Three stories of the pagoda as seen through a glass paneled front door

After seeing Kezoin sub-temple and the three-storied Sanjushoto pagoda, we walked back down the west trail and returned to the Sando main trail. We continued walking down the stone steps of the main trail and reached adjacent to Konjoin sub-temple (previous post). In front this sub-temple we saw yet another trail leading down towards the west side of the temple complex. We started walking down the steps of this west trail which leads to the two famous hall buildings named Kaizan Do and Nokyo Do. We saw that these two buildings are precariously located on the edge of a sheer rocky cliff named Hyakujo Iwa. I will write about these two buildings in the next few paragraphs. After about two minutes of walking down the west trail, we saw a small hall named Taishakuten Do located to our right side along the trail. Taishakuten Do is a very small wooden hall with all its four sides measuring 2.1 meters. The hall was originally founded by Jikaku Daishi and was rebuilt in 1833 by the 64th head priest named Jishun of Risshakuji Temple. A principal statue of Taishakuten is enshrined inside the hall. We walked past Taishakuten Do Hall, and next saw a cluster of small stone statues and gravestone pagodas located to our right side along the west trail. One of the stone statues intrigued me very much because it looked remarkably similar to a Hindu God named Dattatreya Trimurti. We walked along the trail for another minute or so and reached in front of Kaizan Do and Nokyo Do Halls.

Taishakuten Do Hall

Many small stone statues and gravestone pagodas located along the west trail

Enlarged view of the statues

This statue looks similar to Hindu God Trimurti

Kaizan Do Hall (right) and Nokyo Do Hall (left) as viewed while walking down along the west trail

We reached in front of Kaizan Do and Nokyo Do Halls

Nokyo Do Hall is located on the top left corner of Hyakujo Iwa cliff. The hall building seems to be precariously standing on the edge of the cliff. It is a very small building where Sutras are stored. In fact, Hokekyo Lotus Sutras that are intricately hand-copied over a 4-year period in Okunoin Hall are stored in Nokyo Do Hall. Nokyo Do was constructed in 1599 under the order of the feudal lord Mogami Yoshiaki by one of his retainer named Minowada. A large-scale renovation was carried out in 1705. It is a wooden building having Hogyo Zukuri architectural style. The building has copper-sheet roof with Kawaraboubuki batten seam roofing. It has Ketayuki-ichiken (1 Ken or 1.82 meters long beam) Harima-ichiken (1 Ken or 1.82 meters long crossbeam) structure. The outer wall of the building has horizontal planking and is colored in Bengara red. It is the oldest hall building in the mountain temple complex, and was designated as an important cultural property of Yamagata prefecture in 1953. The building was dismantled and repaired in 1987. We loved the architecture of Nokyo Do Hall and took several photos of the building from various positions and angles. Standing in front of the hall, we got wonderful landscape views out into the valley below.

Nokyo Do Hall and the valley below as viewed while walking along the west trail leading to the hall

The hall as viewed from yet another position

Front side view of the hall

Kaizan Do Hall is located on a flat area at the top of Hyakujo Iwa cliff. This hall is dedicated to Jikaku Daishi, the founder of Yamadera Risshakuji Temple. The present hall building is not the original structure and was rebuilt in 1851 by the 65th head priest named Joden of Risshakuji Temple. It is a one-storied wooden building with copper Itabuki roof having Irimoya Zukuri and Hirairi architectural styles. The front facade has Chidorihafu architectural style. It has Ketayuki-sanken (3 Ken or 5.46 meters long beam), Harima-niken (2 Ken or 3.64 meters long crossbeam), and Shomen-ichiken (1 Ken or 1.82 meters space between two pillars in the front) structure.  The front entrance of the building has Kohai roof (eaves) built over the steps leading up to the building. The Kohai roof has Karahafu architectural style. Kohai wooden nosings Kibana are decorated with sculptures of Shishi lions while the transom part is decorated with dragons. Gegyo wooden board of Karahafu roof is decorated with an elaborate sculpture of Houou Phoenix. A seated wooden statue of Jikaku Daishi is enshrined inside the hall. The statue is worshipped, and food and incense offerings are made every morning and evening. In fact, the incense is kept burning perpetually in honor of the founder, and there is constant incense smoke for the past 1150 years. The doors of this hall are usually closed but once in a year on 14th January, the death anniversary of Jikaku Daishi, the hall is kept open to the public for Buddhist memorial service called Hoyo. It should be mentioned here that after the death of Jikaku Daishi in 864, his remains were buried in Enryakuji Temple (check blog posts here and here) on Mount Hiei as well as in Risshakuji Temple on Mount Hoshuyama. His torso was buried in Enryakuji Temple while his head was buried in a natural cave named Nyujokutsu located in the middle portion of Hyakujo Iwa cliff in Risshakuji Temple. The cave is actually located right below Noyko Do Hall but is not accessible to the general public. We loved viewing the design and architectural style of Kaizan Do Hall. I feel that this hall is one of the most beautiful buildings in the temple complex. We clicked several photos of the building from various positions and angles.

Hubby standing in front of Kaizan Do Hall

I am standing in front of the hall

Intricately carved front of the hall with sculptures of Shishi lions on the Kibana, dragons on the transom, and phoenix on the Gegyo board

A tablet plaque with ‘Kaizan Do Rei’ written on it hangs from the entrance door lintel of the hall

A portion of the hall and the roof as viewed from its side

Next, we climbed up a few stone steps located adjacent to Kaizan Do Hall and reached another hall named Godai Do. Godai Do Hall is located to the right side of Kaizan Do Hall (orientation with respect to us); slightly above Kaizan Do on the mountain cliff. Godai Do is actually an observation deck that extends out over the cliff with a commanding view of the surroundings and the valley below. It is said that Godai Do Hall was constructed in the year 890, that is, 30 years after the founding of Risshakuji Temple. The hall was rebuilt in 1714 and was renovated in 1852. It is a one-storied wooden building with copper Itabuki roof. The building has Kirizuma Zukuri, Tsumairi, and Butai Zukuri (stage-like construction) architectural styles. It has Ketayuki-yonken (4 Ken or 7.28 meters long beam) Harima-sanken (3 Ken or 5.46 meters long crossbeam) structure. The hall building has only railings but no walls on three sides, so that the scenic views out into the valley can be enjoyed without worrying about falling off the mountain. The principal images enshrined inside the hall are statues of Godai Myoo which are supposed to protect Risshakuji temple. We saw many Senjafuda pilgrim stickers on the inner wall and the ceiling of the hall. Standing inside the hall, we enjoyed the splendid landscape scenery out in front of us. The range of mountains on the horizon along with the town in the valley below looked stunning.

Godai Do Hall (1) is located to the right of Kaizan Do Hall (2). Godai Do Hall is partly seen in this photo clicked from Niomon Gate (previous post) area.

Godai Do Hall

I am standing inside the hall

Senjafuda stickers

Beautiful scenery to our left side as viewed from Godai Do Hall

Scenery in front of us

Scenery to our right side

We enjoyed the scenic views out into the valley from Godai Do Hall for about 10 minutes, and then left the hall. In front of the hall, we saw a tiny altar named Hakusan Hokora located on the top of a huge rock. We also saw a trail leading further into the mountain forest but saw a notice which clearly stated that the trail was dangerous and visitors are not allowed to hike beyond Godai Do Hall.

Hakusan Hokara altar standing on a huge rock

I am standing in front of a notice indicating that visitors are not allowed to go beyond this point

At this point we finished the tour of Yamadera Risshakuji Temple. We loved visiting the temple and seeing many historically and architecturally interesting buildings and structures in the temple complex. We walked down the stone steps along the trail and returned to the car parking area located near the base of the mountain. We were rather tired due to climbing up and then walking down the trail along the mountain. So we had early dinner at a restaurant near the parking area and regained our strength. Afterwards, we returned home after a car ride of about 3 hours.

Hubby very tired and waiting for the food we ordered at the restaurant

Yamadera Temple - part 2

As I wrote in the previous post, hubby and I visited Yamadera Risshakuji Temple on 25th October 2014. The temple is located on Mount Hoshuyama in Yamagata City of Yamagata prefecture. In the previous post I wrote that we had climbed about 215 stone steps along a paved pathway in the temple complex and reached Sanmon Gate located near the base of the mountain. We walked past Sanmon Gate and started our ascent along a trail that leads up the mountainside to the upper area of the temple grounds. This trail has about 800 stone steps and the ascent usually takes about 40-60 minutes. There are several small temple buildings, stone statues, and Buddhist structures scattered all over the mountain on the way to the top. After seeing Datsueba Hall (previous post) we climbed further up the trail.

The ascent along the trail was very interesting. The stone steps make a winding path along the trail. This trail approach is located along the mountain surrounded by nature. Since olden times, this trail is called ‘Shugyoja no Sando’ or the ‘road of practitioners’. We noted that the width of the trail varied a lot. At the narrowest place the trail is called Yonsunmichi Pass where the width of the trail is only about 14 centimeters. While walking along the trail, it felt like we were stepping in the footsteps of the founder of the temple Jikaku Daishi. Our ancestors have walked along the trail and our descendants will walk along the same trail, and so the trail is also known as ‘Oyako Michi’ or ‘filioparental road’ as well as ‘Shison Do’ or ‘descendant road’. Near Yonsunmichi Pass, we saw a board notifying us that we had climbed about 375 stone steps along the trail from the entrance area of the temple complex (and therefore 160 steps from Sanmon Gate). The trail is surrounded by a thick forest of cedar trees with greenery all around. We saw many stone lanterns, stone pagodas, moss covered small statues, wooden prayer wheels, and rocks carved with Buddhist prayers on either side of the trail. Towering in the upper left of the trail, we saw a sheer rocky cliff called Hyakujo Iwa on which three famous buildings named Kaizan Do, Nokyo Do, and Godai Do stand about which I will write in the next post.

Rocks carved with Buddhist prayers, a stone lantern, and small statues located next to Shugyoja no Sando trail

In the upper area of the same point, we can see the sheer rocky cliff Hyakujo Iwa

We climbed further along the trail, and saw a stone mound named Semizuka located to our left side near the trail. Semizuka means mound of cicadas and was built as a tribute to the famous Haiku poet Matsuo Basho. In the summer of 1689, Basho visited Yamadera Risshakuji Temple. He has described in his travel writing that he stayed at a guest house called Shukubo of the temple located at the base of the mountain. On July 13th of that year, he went to see Konpon Chudo Main Hall (previous post) of the temple but the doors of the hall were closed. So he climbed up the mountain along the trail to see other temple buildings and the surrounding views. It is said that he took rest at this place now called Semizuka and wrote a beautiful Haiku poem about the stillness and silence of the area. I have written the poem in the previous post. It is one of the most famous poems in Oku no Hosomichi. Later in 1751, his pupil visited the place and buried a Tanzaku paper strip with the phrase ‘Semi no Koe’ or ‘the cries of cicadas’ written on it by Basho. Then a mound of stone and a monument were built over that buried strip of paper. Three Kanji characters Ba, Sho, and Ou are inscribed on the stone monument. Near Semizuka, it was so quite and serene, and I felt so calm surrounded by huge ancient cedar trees of the forest. From this place, we could see the rocky cliff Hyakujo Iwa, described in the previous paragraph, more clearly. Near this place, we saw a board notifying us that we had climbed 220 stone steps along the trail from Sanmon Gate. I also saw a small stone statue nearby which intrigued me very much because it looked remarkably similar to a Hindu Goddess named Durga.

Semizuka

Semizuka stone mound and stone monument along with a stone stele in the front to mark the site

Rocky cliff Hyakujo Iwa looming in front of us

A small stone statue along the trail

The statue looks similar to Hindu Goddess Durga

After climbing 350 stone steps from Sanmon Gate along the trail, we saw an interesting looking huge rock called Mida Hora to our right side. It is some sort of volcanic rock and very light and porous at some places. This huge rock on the mountainside is weathered and sculpted by wind and rain for a very long time, which has resulted in creating a fantastic figure form that is shaped like Amida Nyorai. The figure is about 4.8 meters tall and is also known by the name Joroku Amida. It is said that people who can see the figure of Amida Nyorai will achieve happiness. We tried very hard but unfortunately could not make out the figure form. Many stone tablets called Iwa Toba are carved in the bosom of Amida Nyorai on the face of the rock cliff. Many Buddhist inscriptions are carved in hollow relief pattern called Inkoku on these stone tablets. We also saw many Ranto stone pagodas on the ground in front of Mida Hora Rock. In addition, there are many wooden Goshoguruma Kibashira placed near Mida Hora. These are wooden poles with a rotating wheel at the top and are used for memorial services of people who died young. We also saw many 1 yen coins on this huge rock. In fact one portion of the rock is full of such little shiny circular coins. The rock is soft and porous, so it is easy to work the coin into the surface far enough that it does not fall off. I also added one 1 Yen coin on to the rock.

Upper portion of Mida Hora Rock

Middle portion of the rock with many carved stone tablets on the face of the rock

Lower portion of the rock along with many wooden Goshoguruma Kibashira placed on the ground

Enlarged view of wooden Goshoguruma Kibashira

Lower portion of the rock along with many Ranto stone pagodas (right side of the photo) placed on the ground

I am adding one 1 Yen coin on to the porous rock

After climbing about 400 stone steps from Sanmon Gate along the trail, we reached a gate named Niomon. Niomon Gate is located exactly at the midpoint of Sando trail up the mountain from Sanmon Gate. Earlier there used to be a building named Juo Do at this location which was dedicated to Juo, the 10 judges (kings) of hell in Buddhism. In 1848, it was reconstructed as Niomon Gate by the 65th head priest named Joden of Risshakuji Temple. So it is a relatively new building in the temple complex. It is a single-storied wooden gate with gabled and hipped copper roof having Irimoya Zukuri architectural style. It is an eight legged gate and stands three bays wide with the middle bay serving as an entrance. The wooden portion of this graceful gate is fully constructed from Zelkova wood, and the ceiling and pillars have intricate ornate decorations. This gate has a pair of large guardian statues called Nio, one on either side of the entrance. These fierce looking Nio statues, one open-mouthed called Agyo and the other close-mouthed called Ungyo, are supposed to protect the temple from evil spirits. These Nio statues are reputed to be made by Hirai Genshichiro, the 13th descendant of Unkei, and were made to prevent people with wicked souls from entering the temple. Inside the gate building, 10 statues of Juo Kings are enshrined. We appreciated the architecture of the gate and then walked past the gate.

I am climbing up the stone steps leading to Niomon Gate

Niomon Gate

Statue of open mouthed Agyo Nio located to the right side (orientation with respect to us) of the gate

Statue of closed mouthed Ungyo Nio located to the left side of the gate

The gate as viewed from the backside

Past the Niomon Gate, the main ground of the upper area of the temple complex begins. The upper area is open and affords wonderful views out into the valley. Here the number of cedar trees is significantly less and the landscape is wide, which is in contrast to the lack of views along the initial ascent through the dense cedar forest. After passing through the gate, to our left side, we saw the two famous hall buildings Kaizan Do and Nokyo Do located precariously on the edge of the cliff. I will write about these two buildings in the next post. In addition, past the Niomon Gate, there are many sub-temples located at various points along the mountainside. These sub-temples are together called Sannai Shin. During Edo period there used to be 12 sub-temples where many monks used to train but now only four remain, namely Shozoin, Konjoin, Chushoin, and Kezoin. While climbing up the steps along the trail, we saw three of these sub-temples located just next to the steps to our right side. We clicked a photo of a few of these sub-temple buildings from a trail located in front of Kaizan Do Hall. We also saw several very small wooden hall buildings and many huge strangely shaped rocks, weathered and sculpted by natural forces, scattered all around us on the mountain.

I am standing on the steps just past the Niomon Gate. Kaizan Do Hall (1) and Nokyo Do Hall (2) are seen in the background

A huge strangely shaped rock located to our left side along the trail

Shozoin (1), Konjoin (2), and side view of Chushoin (3) sub-temple buildings located along the trail on the upper area of the temple complex

After passing through Niomon Gate and climbing up the steps along the trail, first we saw Shozoin sub-temple to our right side located just next to the steps. Near this place, we saw a board notifying us that we had climbed 540 stone steps from Sanmon Gate. In the olden times there used to be twelve Junishiin temples located in the upper area of the mountain, and Shozoin sub-temple is one of them. In 1868, two temples called Gokurakuin and Zengyoin (Sawanoin) of the mountain were merged to form the present sub-temple. It is a two-storied wooden building with hipped copper roof having Yosemune Zukuri architectural style. The entrance area lower roof has Mukuri and upper roof has Chidorihafu architectural style. The exterior wall of the building has Shinkabe Zukuri style with white stucco finish. A principal statue of Amida Nyorai carved by Jikaku Daishi and a statue of Bishamonten carved by Unkei are enshrined inside Shozoin. We could not see these images but saw a standing statue named Dai Fukutoku Chie Kannon of great fortune and wisdom.

Shozoin sub-temple as viewed from a trail located in front of Kaizan Do Hall

The front of Shozoin sub-temple

Standing statue of Dai Fukutoku Chie Kannon

Facial expressions of Dai Fukutoku Chie Kannon

While climbing further up the steps along the trail, to our right side we saw a small hall named Tainai Do located near a huge strangely shaped rock on the mountain cliff far away from the trail. It is a one-storied wooden building with iron roof having Kirizuma Zukuri architectural style. The building has gabled Tsumairi style with Ketayuki-niken (2 Ken or 3.64 meters long beam) Harima-niken (2 Ken or 3.64 meters long crossbeam) structure. This hall can be assessed by climbing a very dangerous rocky trail up the mountain but visitors are prohibited from climbing up that trail.

Tainai Do Hall and a huge strangely shaped rock

The hall as viewed from a trail located in front of Kaizan Do Hall

We continued climbing up the steps along the trail and next saw the sub-temple named Konjoin to our right side located just adjacent to the steps. Konjoin is one of the olden times Junishiin temples. This sub-temple was rebuilt by a person named Choumei Suhai in 1840. It is a one-storied wooden building having two half-hipped roofs with Irimoya Zukuri architectural style. The entrance area roof has Mukuri architectural style. The exterior wall of the building has Shinkabe Zukuri style with white stucco finish. The principal image enshrined inside the building is a statue of Enmei Jizobosatsu. Statues of Sentai Jizo and Fudomyo are also enshrined. In addition, Nippai mortuary tablet of Fujiwara no Hidehira is also enshrined inside.

Konjoin sub-temple as viewed from a trail located in front of Kaizan Do Hall

I am climbing up the steps along the trail leading to Konjoin sub-temple

Konjoin sub-temple

The front of the sub-temple

While climbing further up the steps along the trail we saw a small building named ‘Taisho Tenno Toguji Yamadera Gyokei Anzaisho’ to our left side located just adjacent to the steps. This building was the temporary lodging of Emperor Taisho, then the crown prince, who rested here during his pilgrimage visit to Yamadera Risshakuji Temple on September 18th 1908. It is a one-storied wooden building with iron roof having Irimoya Zukuri architectural style. The building has Ketayuki-santengoken (3.5 Ken or 6.36 meters long beam) Harima-sanken (3 Ken or 5.46 meters long crossbeam) structure. A pine tree that was planted by the emperor and a monument that was erected afterwards have been preserved as such. We loved the architecture of the building. Standing at this point along the trail, we got wonderful landscape views out into the valley below. We also saw the roofs of several temple buildings located in the upper area of the mountain temple complex that we had passed by earlier.

Taisho Tenno Toguji Yamadera Gyokei Anzaisho

Roofs of several temple buildings located in the upper area of the temple complex

Roofs of several more temple buildings

Amazing view out into the valley as viewed from the upper area of the mountain

We climbed still further up the steps along the trail and saw the third sub-temple named Chushoin to our right side located just adjacent to the steps. Chushoin is one of the olden times Junishiin temples. In 1868, this sub-temple temple was formed by merging three mountain temples named Fudoin, Nakanoin, and Kanmyoin. It is a one-storied wooden building with copper roof having hipped Yosemune and Hirairi architectural styles. The entrance (front facade) roof is gabled and is a combination of Chidorihafu (upper) and Nokikarahafu (lower) architectural styles. The principal image enshrined inside the building is a statue of Amida Nyorai. In front of the sub-temple, we saw a seated metallic statue of Nadebotoke Obinzuru Sama who is reputed to have the gift of healing. The statue is well worn because of the custom of rubbing a part of the statue corresponding to the sick parts of our bodies.

Hubby standing in front of Chushoin sub-temple

Entrance front facade of the sub-temple

I am touching the statue of Nadebotoke Obinzuru Sama

Right in front of Chushoin sub-temple we saw a rather old looking mausoleum of feudal lord Mogami Yoshiaki. Mogami Yoshiaki was the 11th generation feudal lord of Mogami clan of Dewa province. He loved the land and people of the province immensely, and brought peace and stability to the province during the warring Sengoku period. He laid the foundation of the modern-day Yamagata city. Ihai memorial tablets of 10 vassals of Yoshiaki are also enshrined inside the mausoleum. Although the exact year of the construction of the mausoleum is unknown, it is assumed to be built between the years 1620 to 1651. It is a small wooden building with metallic roof having Hogyo Zukuri architectural style. The building has Ketayuki-niken (2 Ken or 3.64 meters long beam) Harima-niken (2 Ken or 3.64 meters long crossbeam) structure. Next to the building, we saw a stone monument marking the site.

Mausoleum of feudal lord Mogami Yoshiaki

A stone monument located next to the building marks the site

We were rather tired but steadily continued to climb up the steps along the trail, and reached in front of two halls named Okunoin and Daibutsuden located at the top of the mountain. I will write about these two halls in the next post. At the mountaintop, we saw a board notifying us that we had climbed 800 stone steps along the trail from Sanmon Gate and a total of 1015 steps from the entrance area of the temple complex. It had taken us about 75 minutes to reach the top. There are several other buildings and structures located around this area. We saw one such building named Issai Kyozo located to our left side towards the west of the trail. Issai Kyozo is a Sutra repository hall that has complete collection of Buddhist scriptures and Sutras housed inside. It was interesting to note that the symbol of Manji inscribed on the upper part of the front wall of this building is the mirror image of the Hindu symbol Swastika.

Front area of Okunoin Hall (right) and Daibutsuden Hall (left)

Issai Kyozo Hall

The front of Issai Kyozo Hall has a) intricately carved wooden patterns and b) the symbol of Manji

In the next post I will write about the remaining temple buildings and structures that we saw on the top of the mountain.