Hubby and I visited Michinoku Folklore Village on 23rd September, 2013. Michinoku Folklore Village (Michinoku Minzoku Mura in Japanese) is an open-air museum located in Kitakami City of Iwate prefecture. The museum exhibits twenty-nine preserved and restored historical structures like farmhouses, merchant-house, Samurai-style house, and other buildings from different historical periods from the Tohoku region. These valuable historical buildings are exhibited in 70000 square meters of scenic spot in the hill and valley of Kitakami River Basin. Actually these old buildings, belonging from the feudal Edo period up to Taisho period, were removed from their original locations in the Tohoku region, and relocated and reconstructed in this scenic spot. The restored buildings are attractively arranged around the park amid forested walkways, ponds and fields. Visitors can enter most of these buildings and see the display of various household items and tools that offer a glimpse into the traditional lifestyle of local people who once lived in the Tohoku Region. Walking along this open-air museum makes the visitors feel as if they are taking a trip back to the old historical times.
On the evening of 22nd September, we left our home in Yurihonjo City at about 4 pm. Michinoku Folklore Village is located about 125 kilometers east of our home, and it took us 2.5 hours of car ride to reach the museum area in Kitakami City. We had dinner at a local restaurant, and stayed at a nearby hotel in Kitakami City. The next morning we left the hotel early, and reached Michinoku Folklore Village at about 9 am. We parked our car at the parking lot of the museum, and walked up to a building that serves as the reception and information desk of the open-air museum. At the ticket counter located in this building, we paid 500 Yen per person as admission fee to enter the museum. We walked along a paved pathway inside the museum, and enjoyed viewing various old buildings. I will write about a few of these historical buildings in this post.
Hubby standing next to the map of Michinoku Folklore Village
Konno Family House
The first building we saw is named ‘Kyu Konno Ke Jutaku’ or the ‘Konno Family House’. Presently, this building is also used as the reception and information desk of Michinoku Folklore Village. This building was originally located in a place called Yanagawa in Esashi-ku of Oshu City. It was constructed sometime between the end of Edo period and the beginning of Meiji period. It is an average house of a merchant family that was located in Shukuba-machi post-town at the border of two feudal Han domains. It sold daily necessities and liquors and also functioned as an inn. Konno Family House located at Notezaki in Yanagawa, was used as the transit point for goods and commodities from the mountainous areas to Jokamachi castle town located at the border of Han domains. During Meiji period, Notezaki was the center of Yanagawa and bustled with activity. The building has been designated as the cultural property of Kitakami City. We loved viewing the building and took several photos from various positions and angles.
Konno Family House
I am standing in front of the building
The building as viewed from the northwest
The building as viewed from the west
Konsei-sama deity
We walked along the paved pathway and saw several phallus-shaped stone statues of a deity named Konsei-sama. This Shinto deity is used to pray for a bountiful harvest, easy childbirth, protection of marriage, and other sex-related issues.
I am amused seeing a phallus-shaped Konsei-sama deity
Kanno Family House
Next, along the paved pathway we saw a building named ‘Kyu Kanno Ke Jutaku’ or the ‘Kanno Family House’. It is the oldest house in the museum. This building was originally located in a place called Kuchinai-cho in Kitakami City. The main building with a thatched roof was built in 1728. Yakuimon Gate with gabled roof was built in 1720. Such a gate was indicative of the higher ranked position of the person living in the house. In fact, this house belonged to the village head ranked as ‘Okimoiri’ working for Date clan during Edo period. The house was also known as Nakamura Yashiki. This building was designated as a national important cultural property in 1965. The house is very big and illustrates what a typical private home used to look like during olden times in Iwate prefecture. We loved viewing the building architecture as well as various artifacts kept inside the house. We saw traditional sunken hearth named Irori in two of the rooms. We also saw an Usu mortar used for pounding rice. In another room, we saw Tokonoma and a family altar. In addition, we saw a grand looking weaving loom in yet another room, and we loved it very much. Everyday there is a demonstration of weaving at this house, except during the winter months. We took several photos of the building and the artifacts kept inside the house.
Kanno Family House as viewed from the northwest
The house as viewed from the southwest
Yakuimon Gate in front of the house
I am standing near the gate
After passing through the gate, the house as viewed from the front (west)
I am standing near the entrance of the house
Thatched roof of the house
One of the rooms inside the house
Ceiling of the above room
I am standing next to Irori hearth in the room
I am standing near Usu mortar in the same room
A second room with Irori
Weaving loom in another room
Another side of the weaving loom
Sleeping baby in a wooden basket
Tokonoma and family altar in yet another room
I am standing in front of Tokonoma
Houjuin Hall
Next, we walked along the paved pathway for about 1 minute or so, and reached a small temple hall building named Houjuin. Its formal name is ‘Haguro-ha Shugendo-jou Houjuin’. Houjuin Hall was built in 1835 and was originally located in Kuchinai-cho in Kitakami City. It was reconstructed in 1985. The principal image enshrined inside this hall is Fudo-Myoo. The hall was used by mountain priests called Yamabushi for ascetic practices. The hall has been designated as the cultural property of Kitakami City.
Houjuin Hall
Another view of the hall
We also saw a cave located adjacent to Houjuin Hall. It is said that Buddhist priests and Yamabushi monks practiced Sokushinbutsu inside the cave. Sokushinbutsu is the practice of observing austerity to the point of death and mummification by priests and monks. Hubby humorously wondered whether there was any mummified body inside the cave.
A cave for practicing Sokushinbutsu
Hubby sitting in front of the cave
Terasaka Checkpoint House
We continued walking along the paved pathway and saw another old building named Terasaka Checkpoint House. Its formal name is ‘Kyu Date Ryo Terasaka Goban Sho’ and was located in the feudal domain of Date clan (Sendai Domain). This building was originally located in a place called Uchikado-oka in Inase-cho of Kitakami City. It was constructed in the beginning of Edo period. This building was actually situated at the border of the two feudal domains Nambu clan and Date clan. During the Edo period, this building was used as a checkpoint to inspect travelers along with their horses and supplies crossing the border between the two feudal domains. The building has been designated as the cultural property of Kitakami City. We loved viewing the building and took a few photos.
Terasaka Checkpoint House
A room with Irori hearth
Another room with Irori hearth
A horse stable room inside the building
Okomado Hall and Konsei-sama deity
We walked further along the paved pathway for about 100 meters and reached a hilly forest area of the museum. We continued walking in the forest for another 150 meters and saw a cute small shrine named ‘Kyu Okomado’ or ‘Okomado Hall’. The shrine hall has been restored to its original condition. The shrine was originally located on Komagatake Summit of Yakeishi Mountain Range of Ou Mountains. The principal statue enshrined inside the hall is Bato Kannon Bosatsu (horse-headed Kannon). During olden times, farmers prayed to Bato Kannon for the safety and preservation of their horses and cattle. During the winter months, the shrine building freezes like rock-hard concrete due to heavy snow and strong winds.
A wooden bridge and Okomado Shrine Hall
I am praying to Bato Kannon Bosatsu
Horse-headed Bato Kannon Bosatsu along with the enlarged view of the horse-head shown as inset
Adjacent to Okomado Hall, we saw a wooden statue of Konsei-sama deity. When the construction of the open-air museum was completed, the workers carved this phallus-shaped wooden statue using the trunk of a big old scared tree of Japanese Oak. As I have stated earlier Konsei-sama deity is used to pray for a bountiful harvest, easy childbirth, protection of marriage, and other sex-related issues. Konsei-sama is considered to be one of the forms of a Shinto deity named Dosojin. Dosojin is the tutelary deity of borders, and believed to protect travelers and villages from epidemics and evil spirits. Incidentally, this statue is located at the border of the two feudal domains Nambu clan and Date clan.
Okomado Hall and Konsei-sama deity
I am standing next to the wooden statue of Konsei-sama deity
Oizumi Family House and Watanabe Family Gate
We turned around at Okomado Hall area and walked along the paved pathway for about 250 meters. Here we saw a grand looking old building named ‘Kyu Oizumi Ke Jutaku’ or the ‘Oizumi Family House’ and an equally grand gate named ‘Kyu Watanabe Ke Mon’ or the ‘Watanabe Family Gate’. This building and the gate were originally located in a place called Aramachi in Kuchinai-cho of Kitakami City. They were built in the middle of Edo period, and have been designated as the cultural property of Kitakami City.
Oizumi Family House is a typical Samurai style house. In fact Oizumi Family was the top ranking Samurai official and chief councilor called ‘Jodai Karo’ in charge of the day-to-day activities of Kuchinai region’s Fugyujo Castle owned by feudal lord Nakajima of Sendai Domain Date clan. Various features of the Oizumi Family House, like Samurai-specific Shikidai low-step at the entrance hall, Zashiki-style living room with Tatami flooring, as well as the kitchen indicated that the construction style of the house was different from a farmer’s house.
Watanabe Family Gate was the symbol of authority for a Samurai. Watanabe Family held the Samurai position of ‘Orusuiyaku’ who represented the feudal lord of Sendai Domain during his absence from the castle. The family also worked as ‘Koshogashira’ who served the feudal lord and performed several duties including attending him throughout the night. These duties indicated that Watanabe Family was very important Samurai family.
We loved viewing this house and the gate. The house allowed us to experience the traditional and unique construction style of a home of the Samurai class. The thatched roof of the house looked grand. Inside the house, we saw Kamado stove in the kitchen, Shikidai step at the entrance area, a room with traditional Irori hearth, two living rooms with Tatami flooring, and a store room with a few boxes. Zori straw sandals kept on Shikidai step looked so interesting. The artwork on Shoji sliding doors of the rooms seemed fantastic. We loved this house and spend a lot of time viewing the building architecture and the artifacts kept inside the house. We took several photos of the house.
Oizumi Family House as viewed from the southeast (backside)
The house and the thatched roof as viewed from the east (backside)
Hubby standing near Watanabe Family Gate
Oizumi Family House as viewed from the north (front side)
The house and its premises, and the gate
I am sitting near the entrance area of the house
Inside the house as viewed from the entrance area
Another inside view of the house as seen from the entrance area
Kamado stove in the kitchen
Zori sandals kept on Shikidai step
I am sitting next to Irori hearth in one of the rooms
Two living rooms with Tatami flooring
Fabulous artwork on Shoji sliding doors
A storeroom
Iwate Prefectural Kurosawajiri Girls’ High School
Next, we walked along the paved pathway for about 5 minutes and saw a school building named ‘Kyu Iwate Kenritsu Kurosawajiri Koto Jogakko Kosha’ or ‘Iwate Prefectural Kurosawajiri Girls’ High School’. The building was originally located in Kajimachi in Kitakami City, and was built in 1927. It is now used as the Folk Museum where various objects illustrating local lifestyle are on display. It is characterized by its semi-western style. The building has been designated as the national registered tangible cultural property.
Iwate Prefectural Kurosawajiri Girls’ High School building
Sugawara Family House
We continued walking along the paved pathway and reached another old building named ‘Kyu Sugawara Ke Jutaku’ or the ‘Sugawara Family House’. The building was originally located in a place called Ogutsu in Nishi Waga-machi of Waga District. It was built during the latter part of Meiji period. Sugawara House is a private house of a farmer that was located in the heavy snowfall district near Akita prefectural border. The snowfall reaches up to 3 meters in the district. So to prevent the roof from collapsing in winter, it is characterized by its high, thick, and strong eaves. The building has been designated as the cultural property of Kitakami City. We loved viewing the building architecture. Inside the house, we saw a horse stable room, a kitchen with Kamado stove and winnowing machine, and a room with Irori hearth. We also saw a small building located next to the main building, which was used as a lavatory as well as a horse stable. We took several photos of the house and the artifacts kept inside the house.
Main building and adjacent small building of Sugawara Family House
Sugawara Family House
Inside the house as viewed from the entrance area
A horse stable room inside the house
Kamado stove
Winnowing machine
A room with Irori hearth
A small building located next to the main building
The weather was perfect and we could enjoy beautiful views while strolling inside Michinoku Folklore Village. We saw many other old buildings in the open-air museum about which I will write in the next post.
Blooming flowers in the open-air museum
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